The SOMM Journal

October / November 2016

Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/735024

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 102 of 132

102 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2016 Early in the morning, we head to Pamplona to secure our space on a central balcony for the viewing of "The Encierro," or The Running of the Bulls. Clad in our whites, we receive red sashes and scarves along with an animated introduction to the history and meaning of the San Fermín Festival. Dating back seven centuries and named for the patron saint of Navarra, the ten-day festival, full of rich customs, is clearly a source of pride for locals. The actual Running of the Bulls lasts exactly 41 seconds—but it's a wild 41 sec - onds. Next, everyone rushes inside to watch the television reports of who was gored and to see the close calls; this is very much a part of the experience. We then head to the casino on the main square for dancing, singing and jovial celebration. When was the last time you unreservedly danced at 9:30 in the morning? It was a priceless experience. For lunch, we are treated to the pri - vate room at Michelin-starred restaurant Alhambra. While course after course of perfectly prepared seafood, jamón, pep - pers and more is served, accompanied by Arínzano 2010 Gran Vino Chardonnay (SRP $79) and Arínzano 2008 Gran Vino Red (100% Tempranillo; SRP $99), our group conversation turns to an in-depth discussion about Vinos de Pago—not an easily deciphered topic. (See the sidebar for an in-depth explanation.) After a short rest and a change of clothes, we meet in the Arínzano fermentation room to begin tank and barrel samples. The winery, designed to flow naturally, does not need to use pumps. Louzada refrains from oxidation and prefers to err on the side of reduction. "I like the freshness; I don't care if the wine needs to sit for a minute once it's opened, as long as it retains that freshness." The current vintage Chardonnay from tank is certainly that—pin-pointed lemon citrus with just-ripe pears and searing acidity. We next taste barrel samples of the previous vintage Chardonnay, isolating only the various barrels used for aging, from multiple producers and forests, as the difference between them. Upon tasting Chardonnay from the Damy Alliers barrel, Fred Dame remarks, "Oh, yeah. This is what great white should taste like." Louzada and Ribbert beam at the compliment and at the collective pleased faces as Louzada shares that blending is secretly his favorite part of winemaking. The marriage of the savory, the toasty, the rich and the lean, depend - ing upon barrel treatment, allows the final blend to exhibit layers and complexity. We taste Tempranillo in the same way, remarking on the differences in barrels. We walk through the expansive winery with a new bottling line, a state-of-the-art filtra - tion system, a meticulous barrel room and a massive cellar. "Space is not an issue here," laughs Louzada, exuding excitement. For our light dinner this evening, we head to the nearest town of Olite to dine at a culinary school, Casa Zanito, owned and operated by cousins desiring to do something a little bit different, and suc - ceeding. White asparagus, a local tomato salad and succulent halibut accompany our three-liter bottle treat of Arínzano 2004 Gran Vino Red (65 percent Tempranillo, 35 percent Merlot): woodsy with cedar and anise, blackberry, chocolate covered rasp - berries, a composed presence with long, seamless tannins. DAY TWO: Festivities, Feasts and the Fine Art of Blending PHOTO: CHUCHI RUBIO From left to right: Director of Viticulture and Enology Diego Ribbert, The Somm Journal Deputy Editor Allyson Gorsuch, Zachy's Wine & Liquor Wine Buyer Michele Weiss, Master Sommelier and VP Prestige Accounts for American Wine & Spirits Fred Dame, Master Sommelier and Director of Wine Education Southern Wine & Spirits of Illinois Serafin Alvarado, Stoli Group USA National Wine Director Daniel Hartenstein, Director of Education Breakthru Beverages Al Beck, Stoli Group USA VP of Southeast Alex Steppacher, journalist Tim Teichgraeber, CEO of the Stoli Group Wine Portfolio and Chief Winemaker at Arínzano Manuel Louzada and Stoli Group USA Director of Wine West Lisa Tuttle.

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of The SOMM Journal - October / November 2016