Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/72473
COVER STORY Gott Grenache? In addition to Shatter, his project with Dave Phinney, Joel Gott has his hands in two other Grenache-based wines. The Show Garnacha is sourced from Spain's Calatayud region, while Alakai is a California Grenache from Monterey County and Knights Valley in Sonoma. Executive Editor Meridith May gives her perception on the taste profi les of the 2010 releases of these French, Spanish and California versions of Grenache. All are sold and marketed by Napa-based, family-owned and -operated Trinchero Family Estates. PERFUME & PERKY ACIDITY: Shatter 2010, Maury, France ($30) Red currants and wild cherries create a mesmerizing perfume, deepened by the time the lusciously textured fruit hits the palate. It even picks up some black fruit and, even deeper, anise along the way. The expected perky Grenache acidity is present but softened by the French oak (aged 12 months, 75% new). Long last the fi nish! Long live Shatter! GENEROUS FRUIT & FLORAL: Alakai 2010 California Red ($18) There's a sweetness we'll attribute to California-grown fruit, The famous schist of the Maury appellation. a nature's sugared plum quality, that, with a hint of hibiscus fl ower, makes a startling entrance for this blend of 77% Sonoma Grenache, 17% Napa Valley Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 2% Petite Sirah. The sun shines brightly on blackberries while white pepper, mocha and cinnamon play the back tones. But that middle: jasmine, violets and hibiscus. A luxury sip. (Alakai is a high-plateau rainforest in Kauai and the name of Gott's black Labrador, who passed away in 2005.) The Roussillon Diff erence The famous black, fractured schist of Maury and other appellations in the Roussillon contributes to the intensity of the region's wines, Gott notes (see the Roussillon story in our November 2011 issue). "This is wildly different Grenache: dark black and sometimes reaching 28 to 30 Brix." Phinney adds that this "fi ckle" variety, while lighter in California, resembles Petite Sirah in the Roussillon, and with yields of only half a ton per acre in Maury, "it's a whole different ball- game." Furthermore, he reminds us, "You can't water in France." DRAMA QUEEN: The Show 2010 Garnacha, Calatayud, Spain ($13) This is where Garnacha fi rst gained its ground: the rugged terrain and high altitude vineyards of Northeast Spain. The Show is as big and bold as the bucking steed depicted on the label. The seamless carmine curtain opens to authentic earthy pleasures: black cherries and chocolate melted into sundrenched soil. Spiced raspberry and roasted coffee plays a character role to the never-ending story. july 2012 / the tasting panel / 51 PHOTO: MIKE PUCCI PHOTO COURTESY OF SHATTER WINES.