Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/723381
september 2016 / the tasting panel / 91 S haken or stirred, cocktails have been an invigorating part of our society for more than two centuries, and during that time there have been people passionate about the art and craft of preparing them. For many, being a mixologist is rather a heady role, similar to that of the alchemist. Ultimately, crafting an amazing cocktail is an exacting science involving drops, dashes and dollops—the combining of dis- similar ingredients, such that in the end, the whole becomes more than the sum of its parts. The obvious difference between the two main types of spirits—white and brown—is oak matura- tion, which profoundly impacts every aspect of the finished spirit. Barrel-aging enhances a spirit's depth of character, body and taste as well as add- ing color. The wood itself adds aromatic notes of baking spice, vanilla and warm caramel. A savvy mixologist can tweak the nuances in a whisk(e)y or brandy cocktail like a chef uses spices to elicit delectable new flavors in a dish. In the panoply of cocktails, a special place is reserved for those made with whisk(e)y or brandy. Perhaps the explanation of why lies in the nature of these noble brown spirits. Whiskies and bran- dies are dripping with provenance, which makes them downright cool. Therefore, any cocktail made with something intriguing is equally cool. "When I consider making drinks with brown spirits, I think of the word 'rich,' as in rich in aromatics and rich in persistence of flavor," says longtime bartender Kim Haasarud, who is also the producer of the Arizona Cocktail Week and founder of Phoenix-based drink consultancy Liquid Architecture. "There is a wealth of flavor nuances to accentuate in whisk(e)y and brandy drinks, which makes them so special to use when crafting complex cocktails." In part due to their elevated cost, Haasarud subscribes to the "less is more" school of thought. "A higher-end brown spirit is a thing of beauty, so often the simpler the cocktail the better—like a Smash or an Old Fashioned. Likewise, it requires finesse and restraint when using modifiers with brown spirits. Some bartenders may use too much of a particular modifier, which tends to mask the nuances in the spirit. The flipside is using not enough modifier, thereby letting the character of the brown spirit overpower it. What's key is striking a balance between the two." Promoting a great whisk(e)y or brandy cocktail on the menu seems a must for any self-respecting lounge, so let the recipes that follow help inspire your fall cocktail list. SAVVY MIXOLOGISTS TAKE ON BROWN SPIRITS JUST IN TIME FOR AUTUMN by Robert Plotkin Fall Fall Fall Flavors of