Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/61075
STEVEN SPURRIER'S LETTER FROM LONDON Primum Familiae Vini T he Latin Primum Familiae Vini (PFV) translates as "Leading Wine Families" and represents an association of 11 of PHOTO: DECANTER the world's most recognised fine wine pro- ducers. Originating from a conversation in the summer of 1991 between Robert Drouhin and Miguel Torres, their project to create a group of representatives from similar family businesses to exchange experiences of the wine trade, gain insight into future trends and explore solutions to their business chal- lenges came to fruition the following year. Of the original dozen members, the Prats family of Cos d'Estournel, the Jaboulets of Tain l'Hermitage and the Mondavis of Napa Valley dropped out as they relinquished family ownership and there are now 11 members: Champagne Pol Roger, Joseph Drouhin, Hugel & Fils, Château Mouton Rothschild, Perrin & Fils, Marchese Antinori, Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia), Torres, Vega Sicilia, Egon Müller–Scharzhof and Symington Family Estates. Following events in Canada and the US in 2008, Hong Kong, Japan and China in 2009 and Brazil in 2010, February 2012 found the PVF in London, at the Michelin two-starred restaurant The Square in Mayfair, to present both a young and a mature wine from their own estates. Guests were seated with 22 glasses in front of them and no spittoons, these being available for the faint-hearted, though I am glad to say that neither Philippine de Rothschild on my right, nor Hugh Johnson on her right requested one. Following an introduction by 2011–12 President Frédéric Drouhin, a member from each family presented the first round, beginning with Hubert de Billy's Pol Roger 2000Blanc de Blancs, creamier and rather fatter than I expected (17.5); Robert Drouhin's 2008 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche took my breath away with its floral, stony concentration (20), yet François Perrin's 2009 Château de Beaucastel Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes (planted in 1901) followed with robust richness (18). Piero Antinori presented a superbly elegant Solaia 2008 (18.5), quoting Robert Mondavi as saying, "In the fine wine busi- ness, we are always at the beginning," 22 / the tasting panel / april 2012 followed by Priscilla Incisa della Roccheta's 2006 Sassicaia, a Tuscan Lafite with great class (18.5). Miguel Torres, noting that "We have been all over the world together in 20 years, made many friends, but still no wedding between the members," presented his deeply smooth 2007 Mas La Plana (18.5), giving ground to Emilio Alvarez's Vega Sicilia 2004 Único, a wine of outstanding concentration and purity (19.5), which even dominated the wonderfully rich and spicy 2000 Mouton Rothschild (18.5). A change of pace came with Etienne Hugel's 2007 Gewurztraminer SGN "S," which has a generation in front of it (18.5), and Egon Müller's 2010 Scharzhofberger Auslese Goldkapsel, a vineyard he noted as "probably planted by the Romans," to which I awarded an immediate 20/20. Finally, Paul Symington's 2007 Graham's had masses energy for a long life (18.5). Lunch was then served, and with lasagne of Dorset crab with a cappuccino of shellfish and champagne foam came a vigourously precise Pol Roger 1988 Blanc de Blancs (19) and a sensational 1990 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche (20); with loin of monkfish with glazed trotter, savoy cabbage, lentils and red wine we had an earthy 2001 Solaia (17.5), a grand classic 1996 Sassicaia in magnums (19) and a Mourvèdre-dominated 1990 Château de Beaucastel, of which I have had better bottles (16); to accompany venison Wellington with baked celeriac and beetroot purée came a beautifully mature 1982 Mas La Plana (18+), an incredible Vega Sicilia 1953 Único, bottled in 1963 and described by Hugh Johnson as having "primitive deca- dence" (19.5) and Mouton Rothschild 1961, "more smiling than Latour 1961" according to Hugh Johnson, with natural maturity (18). Finally, to match bitter chocolate pavé with a Seville orange soufflé, Etienne Hugel's daughter Charlotte presented "Uncle Johnny's" stunning 1976 Gewurztraminer SGN (19), followed by Egon Müller's 1990 Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese, a true work of art (20) and 1963 Graham's, still going strong at 49 years old (18.5). The PFV is considering the addition of a 12th family. Watch this space.