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62 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015 GARYS' VINEYARD. Our next stop took us a good 1,000 feet lower in the mid-sec- tion of the appellation to Garys' Vineyard— one of the region's highest-profile growths, co-owned and farmed by Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni. Zaim describes the two Garys as "a gre - garious twosome, cousins, lifelong friends and farmers, who ended up pioneering the popularity of this appellation by creating award-winning wines while entertaining anyone they meet." Standing in the vineyard, Franscioni shared the secret of his enduring, handshake partnership with Pisoni: "We say, first, be my friend; second, make good wine; and third, pay your bills . . . and so far it's working fine." Our sommeliers were also engaged by Mark Pisoni, one of Mr. Pisoni's sons, who manages vineyards for both Garys. Says Morel, "Gary Franscioni's passion and per - sonal history in the region are, like, wow, and it was great to hear Mark Pisoni talk about their vineyard management tech - niques—every vine constantly touched, everything done by hand by people who know each vine intimately." Garys' Vineyard is notorious for one wine: a quintessential Pinot Noir, from a selection derived from cuttings "liberated" by Gary Pisoni from a famous (unnamed) vineyard in Burgundy. Mark Pisoni told us, "We're very particular about the wineries who get our fruit, but once they're 'in,' we do everything we can to customize the farming of rows or blocks of their choosing, and we let them decide when to pick." To illustrate winemaker differences, we were given a fantastic horizontal of 2013 Pinot Noirs, all bottled with a Garys' Vineyard designation, in this order : Siduri 2013 Gary's Vineyard Pinot Noir – Billowing fragrance, silk layers like foamy waves on cushy sand. Kosta-Browne 2013 Gary's Vineyard Pinot Noir – Bigger, meatier, with the vine - yard's signature heady perfume. ROAR 2013 Gary's Vineyard Pinot Noir – By the Franscioni family; prettier, more petite, never-ending finish. Lucia 2013 Gary's Vineyard Pinot Noir – By winemaker Jeff Pisoni; tightly coiled phenolics, heady, pungent, emphatic without being "big." SOBERANES VINEYARD. Right along - side Gar ys' Vineyard, but on a side of the hill in which the sandy loam is vis- ibly mixed with river rocks and small boulder s, is the Soberanes Vineyard; another project managed by the two Gar ys. According to Gar y Franscioni: "Soberanes Vineyard is named after the family of José María Soberanes, who was granted an 8,900-acre Spanish land grant in 1795. Our two families par tnered again to sign a long-term lease on this proper ty from the Bianchi family, who are direct descendants of Soberanes." With that bit of history, our 19 som - meliers were issued a challenge: an oppor- tunity to test their leaf and cluster-thinning pro wess in a competition, for a prize. Following a demonstration by Mark Pisoni, each sommelier was handed clippers and assigned a row of tiny, loose, uneven-sized Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir (hens and chicks!) to go to work on—their handiwork judged by Mario Reyes, the two Garys' longtime vineyard manager. The "winners?" Kudos go to Catherine Morel and Aaron Benson, who were awarded magnums of ROAR and Lucia Pinot Noir. While Soberanes Vineyard produces outstanding Pinot Noir and Syrah, Chardonnay may be the growth's most impressive varietal: a sentiment borne out by a field tasting of a Meyer lemon–tinged, minerally, almost Chablis-like Lucia 2013 Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay, and a ROAR 2013 Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay layered with honeyed pear Mark Pisoni showing Pinot Noir going through verasion, with hens-and-chicks morphology. Rocky riverbed-sandy loam soil in a Chardonnay planting at Soberanes Vineyard.