The SOMM Journal

April / May 2015

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America America 92 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2015 America America 92 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2015 { viewpoint } by Maximilian Kast t a time when terroir—a sense of place—is the talk of the wine world, it is ironic that here in the United States we limit ourselves to preconceived geographical notions when it comes to deter- mining great American wines. We do so because we assume only certain grape varieties can truly make "Great Wine," and those varieties thrive only in certain areas of the country. It seems that we have settled on California, Oregon and Washington; Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon—and put blinders on in regards to the rest of the country and other grape varieties. There are thousands of Vitis vinifera grape varieties that work in as many different geological and climatic conditions, and yet we have chosen to focus on just a few because they are market- able.We are a society built on rugged individualism, ingenuity and dreams. Why do we let our misperceptions limit the capabilities (and our enjoyment!) of one of our greatest artisanal products? The collective national bias towards certain types of American wine is perhaps our greatest enemy. To change this bias, we as consumers, wine industry professionals and winemakers have to take a chance on the lesser known regions and grape varieties, so that there is opportunity for more pioneering experimentation all around the country. Living as a wine professional in North Carolina, I see both the bias of the consumer and the longing of the local winemaker who wants to craft world class wines. Guests ask my opinion of North Carolina wines regularly, expecting me to transform my face in distain. They are surprised when I mention some of my favorite producers.Yes, North Carolina is a hard place to make wine: We have red clay soils, it is hot and humid in the summer with little diurnal change, and it is hard to combat all of the vineyard diseases that stem from that combination. Who are the producers that fair best? Those who plant grapes that are more suited to the warmer climate. Producers like Raffaldini, who make amazing Vermentino and just planted a block of Sagrantino in the Swan Creek AVA, and Sean McRitchie, who makes outstanding Petit Verdot in the Appellation 92 { THE SOM M JOURNAL } APRIL/ M AY 2 01 5 A vineyard panorama at Raffaldini Vineyards & Winery in North Carolina's Swan Creek AVA. A THE QUEST FOR TERROIR BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST BEYOND THE WEST COAST

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