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{ SOMMjournal.com } 109 the 1960s. While big and chunky, red wines from San Juan Creek deliver deep color and aromatic varietal intensity, benefitting from considerable seasonal diurnal swings (35° to 40° Fahrenheit). Paso Robles Highlands In the eastern- most section of the Paso Robles AVA, the Paso Robles Highlands District is a warmer climate AVA (Region IV), climbing to heights of 1,160 to 2,086-foot eleva- tion, with alkaline alluvial soils mixed with younger sandy soils. Santa Margarita Ranch In its own corner at the bottom the Paso Robles AVA—well south of the municipal zones around the City of Atascadero—the Santa Margarita Ranch shares the charac- teristic of highly calcareous soil types with the rest of Paso Robles. Where it differs is in its moderately cool maritime climate (Region II) influenced by air movement funneled in from both Morro Bay and the Templeton Gap. While not quite as cli- matically "cool" as the appellations of San Luis Obispo (i.e. Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley), grapes like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Zinfandel are generated in a leaner, lighter, acid driven style, closer to San Luis Obispo than the rest of Paso Robles in sensory manifestation. The Santa Margarita Ranch AVA is a virtual monopole belonging to three families farming the Margarita Vineyard and producing wines under the Ancient Peaks Winery label—its five-mile long, 996 acres of vines were originally planted by Robert Mondavi Winery in 1999. The three current property owners reclaimed the vineyard in 2005, who were com- pelled by the ranch's phenomenal mix of soils, ranging from ancient sea bed— replete with chalky white, fossilized sea shells—and sedimentary shale, to rocky granitic and alluvial clay, embedded in 900 to 1,400-foot slopes. Consequently, wines can vary according to the spectacular terroirs; ranging from grippy yet pungent, moderately weighted Cabernet Sauvignons from shale and allu- vial clay blocks, to higher acid, perfumed Cabernet Sauvignons grown in the calcar- eous seabed blocks. VARIATIONS OF TERROIR: PASO ROBLES CAB COLLECTIVE BOTTLINGS Recent notes on current releases representing some of the best of the Paso Robles CAB (Cabernet and Bordeaux) Collective, each very much reflective of terroir related qualities already being associated with the newly approved AVAs of Paso Robles. —R. C. Sextant Wines 2012 "Kamal" Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California ($42) Epitomizing the lush yet bright style possible in the El Pomar District, this elegant package captures an intensely fragrant nose falling in the raspberry/ cherry fruit spectrum of the varietal character, with cedar and anise nuances; fine, lush, round yet zesty on the palate, with a moderately full-body belying its 14.8% alcohol. Parrish Family Vineyard 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California ($50) Grown on one of the cooler climate, calcareous slopes of East Side Paso Robles' Creston District, a combination of lifted acidity and deep, pun- gent, blackberry/boysenberry with distinctive mineral tones suggesting dried pipe tobacco veering towards pepper/star anise; full bodied, with a dense, luxurious mouth-feel, with nary a hint of either "fruit bomb" or green pyrazine characteris- tics once associated with Paso Robles grown Cabernet Sauvignon. Brecon Estate 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California ($58) From one of the oldest, own-rooted, lowest yielding (two tons per acre) plantings in the Adelaida District; a phenomenally deep colored wine showing distinct terroir related qualities of floral/violet perfume laced with an almost Jägermeister-like spiced minerality; on the palate, a deep, vividly etched con- centration packed into a silky fine, medium-weight body, underlined by edgy, mouth-watering acidity. Chateau Margene 2012 "Cask 4" Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California ($96) This seamlessly balanced varietal represents the advantages of blending. Half of the blend comes from Chateau Margene's home estate in Creston District, with a balance coming from a cooler climate Paso Robles Willow Creek District vineyard and one of the rockiest, most calcareous sites in the Adelaida District. The nose is of deep, blackberry/cassis fruit layered with espresso-spiced sweet oak, coming across as plush, silky, yet bright, zesty and finessed on the palate. Halter Ranch Vineyard 2012 "Ancestor" Paso Robles, California ($55) 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot Deep, lush nose suggesting blackberry and dried cranberry; full, broad, thick, fleshy and meaty on the palate, this wine is revved up by bright, buoyant fruit, virtually free of pyrazine, and deep, dark earth tones rather than sweet fruitiness. Jada Vineyard 2012 "Jack of Hearts" Paso Robles, California ($50) 60% Petit Verdot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec Grown on Jada's home estate, demonstrating the vivid, purplish inky concen- tration of anthocyanin and phenolic balance, easily achieved in the calcareous hillside terroir of the Paso Robles Willow Creek District; tight, floral nose with firm yet upbeat savory fruit qualities carried by zesty acid and thick cords of tannin, coiled into an elegantly composed, medium-bodied wine.