Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/376390
september 2014 / the tasting panel / 81 That's an interesting point. Traditionally, the chef selects the menu and the somm does the pairing from the list. I like the idea and it sounds like fun. So, what about meat and poultry? We find the best of the independent, high-quality produc- ers. Grass-fed beef, certified poultry and, of course, the legendary Sonoma ducks. Let's get back to the wine list. When you arrived two months ago, you must have gone searching. There should be some remnants of the sizeable list of the past regimes somew here. Did you find them? The decision in the past few years was to scale back the number of selections and make the list more user-friendly. Fortunately, the balance of the large list was stored carefully, and I inherited it when I came on board. What treasures! I pretty much just had to fill in some appellations with current vintages. The distributors must be loving you! So how's the cellar-check tasting going and where was my invite? Very well, thanks. I should have invited you! Next month we'll be going from 70 selections on the list to over 800. That ought to bring the lovers of great wine in. Oh, and you're invited to come and dine with us. I'm glad we resolved that issue. So Ryan, you have the great list, a talented chef and a lovely dining room. What is going be your imprint on the program? I think it is important to reinforce the idea that the somme- lier is here to support the kitchen and the waitstaff. The list decisions and the pairings should be subject to input. Most importantly, we're not choosing the esoteric ego wines but wines that are best suited to give the diner the best experi- ence. In other words, the wine list serves as a toolbox rather than a boasting element. Would you say sparklers instead of fireworks? I think "silent boom" would be more appropriate! Are you working the floor? Absolutely, one hundred percent. We have gone a bit more formal with wine service; we're opening the wines on a credenza and pre-tasting them. Since you mentioned tasting, we're tasting the Brassfield 2012 High Serenity Ranch Pinot Noir. This wine comes from the High Valley appellation in Lake County—not famous for Pinot Noir, but this wine makes a good argument. I have always called Pinot Noir "the sommelier's friend." This wine has wonderful dark fruit, dark berries. It has that earthy wild-strawberry component, good body to hold up the fruit and great acidity to drive it home. Is the staff tasting? How often? Yes, in fact, everyday pre-shift. Whether it's some- thing new on the list or by the glass, a review of a featured wine or something purely educational. We finish by discuss- ing the wine and food pairings for the day's menu. What do you want to see happen to make the world of wine better? What's your wish? I would like to see more of a community of wine to be shared by all. I would really like to see a higher level of education for everyone so that a common ground of appre- ciation could be achieved. "Most importantly, we're not choosing the esoteric ego wines but wines that are best suited to give the diner the best experience. In other words, the wine list serves as a toolbox rather than a boasting element."