Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/376390
september 2014 / the tasting panel / 103 Category Trends Reserves and tawnies seem to be getting the most play, particularly on-premise, according to producers. Rupert Symington, Joint Managing Director of Symington Family Estates, notes that Reserve Ports have been an important category for the Port house, and he expects to see even further growth for the subset. He adds that the on-premise sector adores tawnies, as they are self-stabilized and pair beautifully with food. He stresses that ten-year-old tawnies are also particularly dessert friendly in terms of pairings. George Sandeman, Brand Ambassador for the House of Sandeman, is also bullish about the same two categories, which he notes are seeing an uptick in growth for his brands. Vintage Port is also getting more attention in the U.S. market, according to the producers, because the 2011 was considered one of the best in decades. It was preceded by superb recent vintages, such as the 2003 and 2007, which have also helped to build excitement about vintage Port during the last decade. In general, many Port producers are aiming for greater balance—less tannins and more fruit- forward flavors—in their fortified wine produc- tion. More affordable, entry-level Ports are part of this trend and may be the gateway to greater placements on shelves and lists. Symington notes that one of his larger-production, entry-level Ports—the fruity Graham's Six Grapes Reserve—could be sold as a dessert wine for as little as $6 a glass. Some producers think that additional sales may be driven by helping consumers understand higher-end Ports by visiting the region. For this reason, for Symington, wine tourism represents the future of the business. Other Categories, Cocktails and Innovations New methods of consumption—chilled, paired with chocolate, savory food, on ice and in cocktails—are all ways of making Port wine consumption more relevant, said Sandeman, whose company has been ahead of the Port cocktail-focused curve. He adds that Sandeman has also recently released a series of 50-cl. bottles of aged tawnies that range from 10- to 40-year-old bottlings, to offer greater access to some of the category's most subtle and enjoyable subsets. While mixability is a clear way to move forward in integrating Port flavors in a wider range of drinks, particularly for younger palates, it may not be right for all producers. Symington says that if there is a perception that Port is in trouble, and if we all "went down the cocktail route we would never come back." Port cocktails emerged about a decade ago, but were slow to catch in mainstream restaurants. More progressive mixologists have continued using Ports as an element in lower-alcohol and food friendly cocktails. Sandeman says that the trend has greatly helped to change the "staid" image of Port. Beyond just serving cocktails, other Port houses are seeking new ways to educate the trade about Port. In downtown Gaia, just across the river from Porto, the historical house of Porto Cruz is using a multi-level space that was restored in 1881 as a tasting bar, museum and home to an interactive Port game. Large, table-height screens allow visitors to choose taste and aroma profiles as well as how they would like to consume Port in terms of background music and company. The program then selects a style of Port that suits their palate. The pairing tool can also be used on the producer's website. The building also features a tapas-style, Portuguese restaurant with Port pairings and an expansive roof deck that features Port cocktails and music. The Future For Sandeman, the future of the category lies in reserves, late-bottled vintages and aged tawny ports. He says that market focus will pull back from standard rubies and tawnies. Future successful marketing campaigns may also lie in better defining the category, in terms of its subsets of taste profiles and food-pairing potential. U.S. consumers have long been open to new flavors as long as they understand them and feel sophisticated and validated in their choices. Operators would be more likely to pick up a wider range of Ports if they could neatly explain their flavors to their customers. That may be the bigger challenge. Rupert Symington is Joint Managing Director of Symington Family Estates, which includes Port producers Graham's, Warre's, Dow's, Cockburn's, Smith Woodhouse and Quinta do Vesuvio. The Port Authority is a Manhattan spinoff featuring Dow's Ten Year Old Tawny with bourbon and Angostura Bitters. Graham's Six Grapes Reserve is a fruity entry- level Port from Symington that can be sold as a dessert wine for as little as $6 a glass.