Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/359372
6 / the tasting panel / august 2014 UP Widely regarded as a winemaker's paradise, the Italian island of Sicily is on the precipice of a meteoric rise as a world-class wine destination. Locals like to say on the island, Batti lu ferru mentri è càudu or "Strike while the iron is hot," and that is exactly what one wine- maker is intent on doing. Stemmari Wines' Lucio Matricardi, Ph.D., encapsulates the Sicilian philosophy of "enologia varietale": winemaking respectful of the typical varietal fla- vors of the grapes. Garnering a doctoral degree in viticulture and enology with a focus in barrique and oak-aging from the University of California at Davis, Matricardi creates elegant, balanced wines while bringing the unpretentious and fun approach of Sicilian culture in a glass. Through innovation and collaboration, Sicilian winemakers are quickly shedding the multi-millennia stigma of simple bulk wine and Marsala, experiencing a dynamic rejuvenation of the old wine patriarchs and handing over the reins to their more worldly, educated, tech-savvy kin. Starting from scratch in 2002, Stemmari faced a unique challenge—how to create scarcity value while projecting innovation and diversity. Backed by Trentino-based Mezzacorona, Stemmari created a 100% energy-independent winery, featuring one of the most sustainable wine productions in the world —a hallmark example of custodial responsibility in Sicily. UpFront with Stemmari Wines Releases from Stemmari represent the new tradition in Sicilian wines: eco-friendly and varietal-driven. Stemmari brings modern winemaking styles and technique to Sicily's noble Nero d'Avola. by Matthew Lorton / photos by Daniel Krieger