Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/343109
120 / the tasting panel / july 2014 and their cru vineyards. The 2008 Barolo Riservas presented no obstacles, remind- ing me of the superiority of that vintage. Stable weather conditions in Piedmont, along with mild days and cool nights from the end of August through September preserved the acidity in the Nebbiolo grapes and allowed sugars to ripen to optimal levels. Weather patterns were similar in 2010. Intense and layered with ethereal aro- mas, the 2008 Barolo Riservas are developing nicely with great structure and length—perhaps a preview to what the 2010 Riservas will show us in a couple of years. The 2011 Barbaresco tested my stamina—and not because the category was presented on the last day. There is a great deal of variation among these wines. In some, the tannins show up bitter, while the fruit character presents as older than it should in wines this young. Too much new oak can really take the life out of these wines. But the best ones are exquisite, possessing a mix of lush fruit, minerality and cocoa-powder tannins. The 2009 Barbaresco Riservas are hefty and somewhat varied with forward fruit and an herbal quality (eucalyptus, mint, licorice). Unfortunately, my most difficult stretch was in the 2011 Roeros. On the whole, the category is disjointed and has more faulty wines compared to the others. Although stand- outs from solid producers did exist, I felt like I was running uphill with these. The 2010 Roero Riservas, on the other hand, show remark- able balance and a classic feminine expression of Nebbiolo (cherry candy, sweet citrus, chalky tannins, rose bud). Even now, just thinking about the 2010 Roero Riservas makes my mouth water. For me, the 2010 Barolos take first place, especially those from La Morra and Serralunga d'Alba. But don't forget about the rest of them. I've been running among the Piemontese hills long enough to know that part of the magic of Nebbiolo is that it changes—whether it's five minutes in your glass or 25 years in the bottle, regardless of village or vintage, if the wine is well made, it's always ready to take you on a unique journey. "My most difficult stretch was in the 2011 Roeros." "For me, the 2010 Barolos take first place, especially those from La Morra."