Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/343109
july 2014 / the tasting panel / 103 CALCAREOUS VINEYARD "What makes Paso Paso is an abundance of key factors," says Jason Joyce, winemaker for Calcareous Vineyard: "fruit, tannins and acid. Ripeness levels here allow us to get extracted wines without green tannins. We're our own world here, with our own set of rules. We really can't refer to Bordeaux when it comes to these varietals." The vineyards are high above Paso Robles, one of the highest limestone plateaus in Paso's Westside: 342 acres atop solid calcareous rock reaching 1,800 feet above sea level. Just west of the San Andreas fault, pure limestone outcroppings are in plain sight throughout the estate. "Slope to slope, the soil changes in this area," notes Joyce. "I have to be aware of what I am dealing with, vine to vine. The magic of this place is to grow nothing but high-end wine grapes." Calcareous 2012 Estate Cabernet ($38) will be released winter 2014, a hedonistic style of red. Dark chocolate, dark pungent fruits are expressive, rich and sensuous. The texture envelops the palate in a soft sheath and the finish is long. At Cass Vineyard + Winery, Executive Chef Jacob Lovejoy pairs a BLT with Cass Cabernet Sauvignon. Having an in-house restaurant makes for a real destination spot, miles off of the main highway. CASS VINEYARD + WINERY With more than half the estate vineyard planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cass Vineyard + Winery gets into creating its unique style by using four different clones (4, 15, 337 and 8). "We always thought of ourselves as a Rhône producer first," claims winery owner Steve Cass, "but we're proud of our one Cabernet and our one reserve Cabernet." Cass's new proposed AVA is Paso Robles Geneseo District, a hilly, rocky and cooler spot east of the already cool Templeton Gap. Cass 2011 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) offers up gorgeous aromatics that match a vibrant acidity and notes of black cherry, fig and red licorice. Not surpris- ingly, this is an excellent food wine and the addition of 17 percent Petit Verdot brings in blue flowers and spice.