Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/314991
98 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 MATTHEW CONWAY, General Manager, Restaurant Marc Forgione Though he grew up within (almost) spitting distance of wine country, Matthew Conway didn't have much exposure to wine until he moved east. Conway received his American Sommelier Association certification ten years ago while working at Manhattan's (now-closed) Cafe Gray, eventually taking charge of the wine program. He has been in charge of the front-of- house operations and wine at Marc Forgione since it opened six years ago. The restaurant—playing by no particular rules: no cuisine style, no two days the same—allows Conway to work "through open eyes" when sourcing wines. "I'll feature wines from anywhere, though we tend to not sell wines that are atypical of their origin," he says. "[But] if a particular wine, regardless of the varietal, fits its regional expectation and works with our food, I'll give it a shot." As for the Wente Family Estates portfolio, Conway said the history of Wente and the European-like tradition of family farming and viticulture, passed from generation to generation, appealed to him as much as the wines. "It's just a great story. They truly care about their wines, their heritage, and their legacy." His wine: The Nth Degree 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon His notes: "Dark, rustic, earthy, and the first non– fruit forward wine today. It's firm and structured yet pleasant with a nice balance." His picks: At Marc Forgione, Conway picks the Tomahawk rib-eye steak. "I am not a big believer in Cab/steak pairings, but this is one I would recom- mend as this Cab has the structure to fight a big fatty steak." Noting that this wine could stand up to some hefty cuisine, he picked Marea's heritage poultry with lentils for a match. NATALIE TAPKEN, Wine Director, Lure Fish Bar and Corporate Wine Buyer for Green Apple Restaurant Group As the wine buyer for Lure Fish Bar and parent company Green Apple Restaurant Group, Natalie Tapken, who has a Ph.D. in philosophy, over- sees purchases for five restaurants with a six-person staff. Green Apple's diverse portfolio makes her job a challenge. "I need to buy wines that go with anything from sushi to Mexican to burgers," says Tapken, who was working towards her Master of Wine before getting sidetracked by motherhood this year. "Historically, pairing wine has never been much of a consideration, so I've had to start from scratch." "Wente is such a classic," she says. "They offer well-made, honest wines at very competitive prices. And, the family is so humble about their place in California wine history. I find that refreshing." Her wine: Wente Vineyards 2010 Reliz Creek Pinot Noir Her notes: "Beautiful strawberry notes, great balance and finesse. Strawberry fields forever on the finish with subtle tobacco notes and vanilla and black cherry. Best-value California Pinot! Her picks: "The octopus with the red wine reduction and smoked potatoes worked brilliantly with the cigar box notes of the Pinot. The acidity in the wine cut through the sauce and meaty octopus. A great match!" From Lure Fish Bar, she picks the Nori-crusted tuna. "The crispy texture of the tuna would be great with the Pinot. It is sashimi-grade and best served raw, so this preparation begs for Pinot. The iron-rich fatty fish would bring out the strawberry in this wine." Somm Journal June/July.indd 98 5/9/14 12:13 PM