Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/314991
74 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 { real somm stories } Inside the brewery, two men—identically clad in blue coveralls, white rubber boots and face masks—are steam- ing a large vat of rice, about the size of a child's swimming pool and twice as deep, filling the room with sweet, starchy aromas. Marumoto scoops a handful of rice—pure white and perfectly round, the polished grains resemble bb pellets— and offers us a taste. Steamed for only a few minutes, the delicate beads of rice are still toothsome but not crunchy. Over the next two months the rice will be added in batches to large fermentation tanks where it will eventually turn into a light mush after much stirring and settle to the bottom. Strained away from the saké, these nutrient-rich lees are used to make small cakes and amazake, a comforting, non-alcoholic drink typically served warm. Just as the entire nation celebrates the blooming of the cherry trees, the saké cycle will begin again as farmers flood their fields and prepare the land for tiny, bright green shoots. "In Japan, the saké is different region to region," says Motai, "because the rice and the water are different." And then, as if challenged to sum up the great magic and mystery of terroir in less than ten words: "If it's the same, it's just not interesting." Note: For any industry professionals hoping to learn more about saké, and for the opportunity to visit breweries in Japan, please inquire with Saké Brewery Tours at sakétours.com. Sho Chiku Bai Junmai Classic, produced by Takara Sake USA in Berkeley, California, was introduced in 1983 and is the top-selling saké in the U.S.. It is made from California- grown rice and local water. PHOTO: HARDY WILSON PHOTO: HARDY WILSON BACKGROUND IMAGE: FORREST OLIPHANT VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS Somm Journal June/July.indd 74 5/9/14 12:10 PM