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68 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 is nearly pure rock for 20 inches down in most parts. Valgella is the furthest east (although the Valtellina Superiore DOCG zone reaches east beyond Valgella, past the town of Tirano) and its Nebbiolo wines are some of the most aromatic, supple and harmonious. Variations in Personality While the existence of historically defined sub- zones is important to the identities of the vineyards and winemakers, one of the most important things to understand about Valtellina is that the wines' variations in personality from subzone to subzone are not always perceptible. Often because micro- climate and soil variations occur from terrace to ter- race, wine diversity exists even within the subzones. Elena Fay of the producer, Fay, whose vineyards are concentrated within Valgella, explains that between vineyards, "the difference is given by the depth and slope of the soil, the number of walls present and watershed, etc." Winemaker Claudio Alongi of Nino Negri says, "Keep in mind that every winery has dif- ferent terrain and produces [wines with] different characteristics." Most producers own many sites in many different subzones, and the style of each producer makes a Fay 2010 Carterìa Valtellina Superiore DOCG ($30) After a few minutes in the glass, this wine opens and expresses flowers, deep woods, sweet strawberry, and minerals. There is a pronounced balsamic note in the palate. Chalky but fine tannins in the finish indicate a long life ahead. OMNI WINES/SIEMA WINES/TOSCO WINES Fay 2010 Cà Moréi Valtellina Superiore DOCG ($30) Fresh tobacco leaf, humus, and forest in the nose complement cranberry, cherry, and spice on the palate. Ever evolving with complexity and dusty tannins. The Cà Moréi vineyard is the steepest of the three and has the most terraces. OMNI WINES/SIEMA WINES/TOSCO WINES Fay 2010 Il Glicine Valtellina Superiore DOCG ($30) This wine is so fresh and expres- sive, it's almost as if you can smell the moun- tain air in the glass: delicate strawberry, rose, gravel, juniper berry, and breezes blowing past pine trees. Polished and sophisticated. OMNI WINES/SIEMA WINES/TOSCO WINES Grapes destined to make sforzato (or sfursat) arrive at the fruttaio. 1000 3000 5000 5000 10000 5000 5000 3000 8000 8000 5000 7000 1000 500 500 1000 3000 5000 2000 4000 3000 5000 7000 3000 5000 2000 1000 3000 5000 Aldo Rainoldi Nino Negri Fay Nera & Caven ARPEPE SS38 SS38 SS38 SS39 29 Adda Adda Mallero Venina Lago di Poschaivo I T A L Y SWITZERLAND Morbegno Albosággia Berbenno di Valtellina Téglio Chiuro Poschaivo Tirano Sondrio Local winery Rosso di Valtellina DOC Valtellina Superiore DOCG Valtellina Superiore DOCG Maroggia Valtellina Superiore DOCG Sassella Valtellina Superiore DOCG Grumello Valtellina Superiore DOCG Inferno Valtellina Superiore DOCG Valgella Contours (heights in feet) Map data © Cosmographics Ltd. UK., 2014. 0 0 5 10 kilometers 5 10 miles VALTELLINA 5000 Somm Journal June/July.indd 68 5/9/14 12:10 PM