The SOMM Journal

May 2014

Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/314991

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 60 of 107

{ SOMMjournal.com }  61 Nicolas. Why such controversy exists around such a storied vineyard is a great story in itself. When Joly took over the domaine from his mother in 1980, he insti- tuted biodynamic practices, accomplishing a full conversion by 1984. Today, the words "biodynamic," "organic" and "natural" help give wines credibility. But in Joly's early days, biodynamic viticulture was unheard of by most . . . even seen as a bit extreme. Even when I visited Joly at his home near Anger in the summer of 2010, the movement had not fully developed. And that seemed to be fine with Joly, who was clearly not interested in the popularity of a movement towards more natural wines—those we now say are "made in the vineyard, not in the cellar." Yet Joly was the poster boy for minimal-intervention winemaking—highly sought-after as a speaker. In his living room he described the same techniques he had used since the early '80s, allowing the vintage to speak for itself while also acknowledging that the hand of man is unquestionably a part of all ter- rior. "I have never 'made' a wine in my life," Joly said. "Once the grapes are picked and pressed, they do what the vintage intended them to do." Upon my return from France, the "natural" wine movement was in full force. Organic, unfiltered wines made with little or no preservatives that had always had a niche in the market started to see mainstream success. It seemed as if it was time for a large-scale discussion on the "threat" to long-practiced traditional farming methods. Were these wines beginning to challenge the status quo? PHOTO: ERICA GANNETT Bernie Sun, Corporate Beverage Director, Jean-Georges Vongerichten. PHOTO: ROBERT CURTIS Nicolas Joly's Coulée de Serrant is imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. Somm Journal June/July.indd 61 5/9/14 12:10 PM

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of The SOMM Journal - May 2014