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{ SOMMjournal.com } 53 ful person. Success is something Mack can speak to: He left a successful career in finance to pursue a career as a sommelier, then became an importer, next a winemaker, now also a designer—you lose track of how many careers the man has had. Mack: "Greatness lies in everyone, presented with the right set of things, people step up." Then why don't more folks transcend their station? Mack: "Most people won't do the work." Mack has always done the work. Four or five successful careers and a constantly growing body of design work demonstrates his old-school work ethic. When he was first a sommelier at a San Antonio steakhouse, he had a real "aha" moment that showed him just how much "work" had to be done if he would become a great sommelier. Mack: One night I tasted 1971 Pétrus. A couple of older clients used to bring Bordeaux in all the time, good houses, mature wines. I called myself 'Judge Dregs'—I would have all the wines lined up with the dregs. I really cut my teeth on Bordeaux. So, I tasted the '71 Pétrus and thought, 'If this is the epitome, I don't get it and I want to get it. I've got a lot to learn, I've got a long way to go.' " Mack called up every top restaurant he could and asked for their wine list. He wanted to know what wines the best carried. One stood out: Raveneau. Mack: "I wanted to taste that! I wanted to have it in my program. It made me part of a group." Back in 2000 not many buyers in San Antonio asked about Raveneau; this set Mack apart, and invited the exposure and introduction to other wines and regions. At that time in Texas, he says, Burgundy was like the underground. Mack: "It was like this one time I met a guy and he asked me, 'You like Burgundy?' Yeah! 'Come over to my house next Saturday.' And I would go and Clive Coates [the great Burgundy scholar] was there hangin' out!" Working in a fringe market like San Antonio, Mack wanted to test himself against the best. He entered the Best Sommelier in America Competition, and won in 2003. This caught the attention of Houston native Paul Roberts, Wine Director of the French Laundry. Their chemistry was immediate. Roberts invited Mack to work at the French Laundry; later they would open Per Se together and assist in achieving 3 Michelin stars. TG: Anyone inspire you early on? Your wit, style of humor? Mack : "Humor was important in my family, you couldn't take yourself seriously. My dad was a big Eddie Murphy fan. Richard Pryor was a big influence: sharp and challenging and controversial and Steven Wright on the drier side. (Pause) But it was Thomas Keller who really inspired me, he's a funny guy. Keller taught me to be serious in your craft and what you do—don't take yourself seriously." At the French Laundry and then at Per Se, Mack says Keller com- bined sincerity and humor . . . the playful names of dishes and the intent to bring things down to earth. At the time, it was punk rock for a 3-star Michelin restaurant to play with its food. "Tongue in Cheek" was one such dish: braised beef cheeks and veal tongue, not common ingredients in America at the time, and given a playful name and executed brilliantly. Mack: "I want to do good shit. I want to give back!" On May 1, Small Thyme Cooks will launch—a mash up of the activity/ coloring books of our youth and a charitable tribute to one of the great American chefs, Charlie Trotter. The book is loaded with esteemed chefs: Daniel Boulud, Alice Waters, Anthony Bourdain, Eric Ripert, David Kinch and more. The book is self-published, with all artwork created by Mack. Proceeds go to the Charlie Trotter Culinary Education Foundation. Mack staged at Trotter's while preparing for the Best Sommelier in America Competition, and the chef left a lasting impact on him. Small Thyme Cooks is fun and dead-on, as well as thoughtful and playful. Many were confused about the project : A coloring book? For kids? Mack: "Is it for kids? Or for the kid in all of us?" André Mack kicks back for some frank talk. MACK AT TABLE (NOTE: Most f-bombs were omitted for consider- ation of our more sensitive readers.) What do you want to see more/ less of in the food and wine trade in America? More: Research, hard work, taking a stand, chal- lenging the status quo, challenge your mentors, proper temperature. Less: Shit-talking, entitlement. Favorite cuss word? F*ck. Currently listening to? Bobby Womack's Bravest Man in the Universe. Words of advice? Show up. Nothing is gained by being the last per- son at the party. Somm Journal June/July.indd 53 5/9/14 12:09 PM