The SOMM Journal

May 2014

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Page 48 of 107

Peruvian Style La Mar has raised the bar on Peruvian cuisine around the world. At the restaurant's San Francisco location, Manager Oscar Davila recommends paring the ceviche classcio, a mix of fish and shellfish in a citrus-based aromatic marinade, with highly acidic wines. His first choice would be a Do Ferreiro 2012 Rías Baixas Albariño because it has bold citrus, salinity and minerality on the palate. "The pink grape- fruit and lime notes match the creaminess of the halibut," he says. His second choice would be the Argentine Siete Fincas 2012 Torrontés. The wine is more full-bodied on the palate with floral tones and notes of nectarines and apricots. The finish is longer, softer and more neutral than that of the Albariño. His last wildcard combination with the classic ceviche dish would be a Patagonian Pinot Noir, from the Argentine side of the region. The Bodegas Chacra 2012 Barda Pinot Noir, according to Davila, is bright, light and complex with an acid structure similar to some New Zealand Pinot Noirs. Its light tannins, according to Davila, balance out the acidity from the ceviche and bring out its zing factor. Not So Classic French Pairings Sommelier Aldo Sohm says he seeks out wines with clean fruit to pair with the restaurant's signature dish of pounded tuna with foie gras. The Romain-Papilloud 2012 Amigne de Vétroz is a white indigenous Swiss varietal that has an aroma of orange peel that is reminiscent of a Gewürztraminer without being heavy or chunky. "The wine is aromatic so it gives you that hint of sweetness that connects the aromatics to the foie gras." His second choice is the 2012 Fass 6 "Senior" Ayler Kupp Riesling, produced in the Saar region of Germany by Peter Lauer. The region is cool, according to Sohm, so the fruit is very clean and the wine has a high mineral component. The Riesling's high acid level makes it seem drier than it is and yet allows a little fruit to come forward and connect with the foie gras. He adds that the aromatic notes of stone fruit and pineapple help the wine interface with the lemon juice in the dish. The last wine would be a Chasselas from Oregon, the Teutonic Wine Company 2012 Chasselas made in the Willamette Valley. The Swiss grape variety used in this wine is aromatic, clean and fruity with a couple of grams of residual sugar in it. These six grams of sugar, buffer up the notes of lemon juice and unify the dish. Liza Zimmerman has been writing and consulting about wine and food for two decades. She has worked for magazines such as Wine Enthusiast, La Cucina Italiana, Where SF and The Examiner. She focuses on demystifying wine and transforming it into a tool for networking, with a focus on Silicon Valley com- panies such as Genentech, Roche and IBM. She has visited all the major wine regions and holds the Diploma of Wine & Spirits (D.W.S.), the three-year precursor to the Master of Wine. The pounded tuna at Le Bernardin in Manhattan. PHOTO: SHIMON AND TAMMER { }  49 Traditional buckwheat pasta blecs are matched with wines from Collio at Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, CO. A trio of selections from Spain and Argentina complement La Mar's ceviche. PHOTO COURTESY OF FRASCA FOOD AND WINE PHOTO: KRZYSZTOF KACZKA, COURTESY OF LA MAR Amigne is a white Swiss varietal reminiscent of Gewürztraminer. PHOTO: ALDO SOHM Somm Journal June/July.indd 49 5/9/14 12:09 PM

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