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48 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 { pairings } 48 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 For the ceviche classcio at La Mar in San Francisco, Manager Oscar Davila suggests highly acidic wines such as the Rías Baixas Albariño from Do Ferreiro. THERE IS ALWAYS A WINE THAT IS GOING TO MAKE A dish sing. And it does not always follow the rule of "What grows together goes together." Here are three of my favorite cuisines and a handful of wines that work with them. Italy is my adoptive home and I have always loved the food of Friuli because of its crazy-quilt of Austro-Hungarian influences. Days in Peru are usually passed enjoying Pisco Sours with ceviche, but there are wines that do it justice. Innovative French seafood dishes can be a challenge to pair with wine when the fish is raw, but New York's Le Bernardin was ready with a few solutions. Alps Italian At Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colorado, blecs—a traditional homemade buckwheat pasta—are made with moun- tains of wild mushrooms. It is an elegant dish that, according to Sommelier Bobby Stuckey, MS, works well with the Borgo del Tiglio 2010 Collio Ronco della Chiesa from Nicola Manferrari. The wine, which is made from 100 percent Friulano grapes, has a powerful and highly acidic style. He adds that wines from the Collio region of Friuli are naturally high in richness without being out of balance and look to Austria for style and inspiration. His second pairing with the blecs would be the Edi Keber 2012 Collio Bianco, a typical blend of Friulano, Ribolla and Malvasia grapes. The wine has a bitter almond note that is typical for grapes from the region and is produced from old vines on white marl. His third pick for the blecs is the Moric 2010 Blaufränkisch from Austria. The generally cool-climate varietal drinks like a Burgundy according to Stuckey. It is bright, fruit-forward and aromatic and gives the blecs a little zing and lift. Three Dishes with Many More Wines A LOOK AT TRADITIONAL DISHES FROM UNUSUAL PLACES AND THE WINES THAT DO THEM JUSTICE by Liza B. Zimmerman, D.W.S. PHOTO: KRZYSZTOF KACZKA, COURTESY OF LA MAR Somm Journal June/July.indd 48 5/9/14 12:09 PM