Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/288975
90 / the tasting panel / april 2014 CHEFS: ONE-ON-ONE WITH MERRILL SHINDLER S unny Oh, Co-Executive Chef at the wonderfully eclectic Juvia in Miami Beach, is a Korean-born chef who doesn't cook Korean food—at least not at Juvia. Instead, his food is a little French, and a lot Japanese-Peruvian. Which is not surprising, since his strongest culinary influence has been Nobu Matsuhisa, who made Sunny the first non-Japanese Executive Sushi Chef at the New York branch of Nobu. Sunny was born in Seoul, South Korea. But at age five, he moved with his family to Miami. His life has long been built around the water, and the tasty creatures who live in the water. Which is why his menu is heavy with seafood crudo, oysters, Chilean seabass, seared tuna, sea scallops on a plancha—and a Peruvian potato dish made with chocolate eel sauce. With no kimchee in sight. Merrill Shindler: What's your earliest food memory? Sunny Oh: I remember watching my mother cook, and sing, when I was six years old. Mom's voice was so beautiful as she chopped food. Did your Korean family have trouble adjusting to life in the United States? Living in Florida, it was hard to find ingredients for their traditional dishes. Adjustments had to be made. We started eating stuffed cabbage, a Jewish dish. It could have been Korean. Talk about your relationship with fish. Growing up in Florida, fishing was so easy. When I got into the restaurant business, I'd go fishing four times a week. I read all the books I could on fish and fishing. When I'm fishing, I don't drink beer. I don't do anything but fish. You were Nobu's only non-Japanese chef. Did that matter? It did make a difference, and it didn't. The Japanese have a great respect for food in their culture. That had to be learned. There was a delicacy to his dishes that had to be learned. What do you cook at home? Simple food, grilled, nothing too lavish. I make Korean food—spicy pork, beef, chicken, lots of fish. Do you have a guilty pleasure? Ramen. I can't live without ramen. I grew up eating instant ramen in Florida. Instant ramen is better than no ramen at all. I eat it at midnight. I put everything in it. You have the same name as a Korean pop singer. And a Korean golfer. Do you have a secret life? They're both girls. And they're younger than me. I'm the Sunny Oh who cooks. Sunny Oh THE CHEF OF JUVIA IN MIAMI BEACH MOVES BEYOND HIS KOREAN BACKGROUND Adjustments had to be made. We started eating stuffed cabbage, a Jewish dish. It could Growing up in Florida, fishing was so easy. When I got into the restaurant business, I'd go fishing four times a week. I read all the books I could on fish and fishing. When I'm fishing, I don't drink beer. I don't do anything but fish. You were Nobu's only non-Japanese chef. Did that matter? It did make a difference, and it didn't. The Japanese have a great respect for food in their culture. That had to be learned. There was a delicacy to his dishes Simple food, grilled, nothing too lavish. I make Korean food—spicy pork, beef, Ramen. I can't live without ramen. I grew up eating instant ramen in Florida. Instant ramen is better than no ramen at all. I eat it at midnight. I put everything You have the same name as a Korean pop singer. And a Korean They're both girls. And they're younger than me. I'm the PHOTOS COURTESY OF JUVIA Chef Oh's seafood preparations at Juvia. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K ECRM_TP_April2014.pdf 1 3/10/2014 10:23:58 AM TP0414_072-101.indd 90 3/21/14 2:53 PM