Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/288975
62 / the tasting panel / april 2014 inspired the discovery of umami) and beef tongue braised in saké finished with a Cabernet-miso glaze. A splash of MIO Sparkling Saké even finds its way on to the dessert menu in a dish of berries in ginger syrup and Cabernet-blackberry sorbet. Pared-down cuisine like that cre- ated by Chef Akira Komine at Kirala Japanese restaurant, also in Berkeley, may provide the most clues to success- fully pairing still or sparkling sakés with cuisines other than traditional Japanese. Kirala has been a neighbor- hood favorite for 15 years and has introduced its customers to several different saké styles. One of Komine's signature dishes is hand-pulled soba noodles, a culinary art form not often seen outside of Japan, which relies on the earthy, vaguely sweet flavor of buckwheat noodles as the basis for an ideal saké pairing. Komine favors home-style cooking techniques that require pris- tine ingredients like Alaskan black cod marinated in white miso and saké for two days and then grilled to perfection. "Marinating and grilling adds layers of umami flavor to this light dish making it ideal with an easy-drinking junmai saké," said Komine whose large menu features robata, or grilled, items in addition to a sushi bar and his signature noodles. While saké pairs effortlessly with Japanese and pan-Asian cuisines, it's also finding its footing when paired with Western cuisines. Both the mirrored and contrasting saké and food pairings suggested here take their cues from the aromas and flavors of the saké. Suggested Saké and Food Pairings The saké suggestions below are based on Western flavors that pair well with saké. Further, Izumi Motai suggests the addition of umami flavors. Motai notes that umami is more prominent in junmai-type sake, and introduces fuller, deeper and more savory characters. Umami in saké naturally pairs well with umami in food. SAKÉ AROMAS AND FLAVORS SUGGESTED FOOD PAIRINGS crisp, clean, delicate with herbal notes ..................... bitter greens (mustard, endive, arugula), shellfish delicate, clean, versatile ........................................... seafood appetizers, fried calamari, grilled fish soft herbal or anise notes .......................................... fennel dishes, lavender-infused sauces or desserts bright, bitter citrus and floral notes............................ salads, vegetables, fried fish Pineapple and honeydew notes ............................... spicier foods and fruit salsas fruity with melon and banana aromas ....................... sturdy fish with fruit salsa, peach-glazed pork chops creamy, lemon, tropical fruit and spice ...................... citrus vinaigrettes, root vegetables, poultry rich, viscous textures and mild sweetness ............... glazed duck, stuffed pork loin, nut and dried fruit couscous sweet raisin and pear notes ..................................... roasted poultry, pork dishes, noodles and earthy grains sturdy, earthy flavors and firm acidity ........................ hearty grains, mushrooms, beef and lamb dishes, game birds, smoked meats honeyed aromas and flavors......................................dishes with ginger, clove and white pepper and cured, dried, heavily-spiced foods At Kirala, Alaskan black cod is mari- nated in white miso and saké for two days, grilled to perfection and paired with Sho Chiku Bai's Rei draft ginjo saké. Inspired by the regional dishes of Sendai, Kamio's marinade of saké, koji and spicy chili flavor a beef tongue salad. Shotaro Kamio's signature beet-cured ocean trout is a gravlax-style dish that pairs ideally with MIO Sparkling Saké. IS BACK! TP0414_034-71.indd 62 3/21/14 2:42 PM