Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/2622
54 / the tasting panel / september 2009 Intro-Vinous S o, would a native Californian who moves to Israel to grow wine have trouble moving the product? UC Davis–trained enologist Victor Shoenfield, head winemaker for Golan Heights, wasn't interested in the question, but the CEO of Yarden, Inc., Udi Kadim, was there to answer for him with a quiet smile: "Not to worry; Yarden wines will sell themselves." But it wasn't culture or business that Shoenfield was eager to talk about; it was science. Rich volcanic soil aside, Golan Heights is unique because of its dramatic range in elevation, enabling vineyards to produce a large variety of fruit in an area with less than a 20-mile radius. What's fascinating is how. Apparently, change in altitude mimics change latitude. Here's Schoenfield's rough rule of thumb: An increase of one meter in elevation mimics an increase of one kilometer in latitude. In other words, you really don't have to cover a lot of ground in order to cover a lot of ground! The varied elevations of Golan Heights repro- duce climates similar to those ranging from Burgundy to Bordeaux, and from Willamette to Napa Valley, to name a few. Shoenfield calls Yarden's single-vineyard organic Chardonnay Odem "unashamedly concentrated," and it's true; it gets our kudos for being so daring and yet still elegant. The Yarden Gewürztraminer, from grapes grown in the coolest of areas in the Heights, is one to bring to any dinner party; it fits the budget (SRP $15) and is a wine for everyone—or as Shoenfield would say, "it cuts through sophistication levels." For Shoenfield, winemaking is not about creating a style, it's about "dancing with nature." —Marguerite Richards N o longer do you have to reach for a French Condrieu to experience great Viognier. Blair Fox, winner of the 2008 André Tchelistcheff Winemaker of the Year award at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, is making world- class Viognier in Santa Barbara, on California's Central Coast. Fox's 2007 Paradise Road Vineyard Viognier is a stunning example of the varietal. Its decadent tex- ture is coaxed out of the wine during its ten-month stay in 100 percent older French oak barrels, aged sur lie. Texture alone doesn't make Fox's wine great. Ris- ing from the glass is a penetrating perfume of white flowers, zest of lemon and lime with ripe apricots and white peach. Fox manages to retain focused acidity and minerality, leading to the wine's great finish. Why can't all Viognier be this good? Para- dise Road Vineyard is the answer. "It is a beautiful property with an elevation of about 1,200 feet and very red, oxidized, iron rich soils," notes Fox, who has also held the position of head winemaker at Fess Parker Winery since 2005. Blair Fox Cellars also produces Syrah from this site, along with Fox Family Estate, Puri- sima Mountain, Thompson and Tierra Alta Vineyards. 98 cases, SRP $27. —Andrew McNees Victor Shoenfield (seated) head winemaker for Golan Heights, with Udi Kadim, CEO of Yarden, Inc. Dancing with Nature PHOTO: MARGUERITE RICHARDS Blair Fox at Rodney's Vineyard in Santa Ynez, CA. PHOTO: ROB BROWN A Twenty-First Century Fox Yarden wines from Israel's Golan Heights.