Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/188061
Tasting Notes Steele 2001 Viognier Distinct pineapple, herbaceous and petrol notes with evidence of some Botrytis. Round mouth feel from this fuller, richer style with evidence of some residual sugar and a complex finish. Shooting Star 2007 Riesling Delicate notes of dried flowers and citrus blossom deepening to include petrol, brioche and honeycomb in this bright, Kabinett-style wine with medium acidity, body and finish. Left to right: Steele winemaker Joy Merrilees, Mike Martini of Louis M. Martini, Eric Stine of Foley Family Wines and Steve Tylicki from Steele hard at work. ment of winemaking in Lake County; they mark the point when we went to the uplands for new vineyard sites." Obsidian Ridge owner Peter Molnar, chairman of the Lake County Winegrape Commission and an outspoken advocate for the county's wine quality, pointed out that Bordeaux clones had become available when they were planting new sites in the '90s, which meant that winegrowers had material of a much higher quality to select from. "I'm stuck by the level of interest we're seeing in our programs now versus ten years ago. Once winemakers have a couple of vintages under their belt, they really understand how to work this fruit." Well Rested A panel of 15 tasters gathered to evaluate the wines, including winemaker Denis Malbec, who produces the Alienor label with Kelseyville grower David Weiss. Malbec blended Lake County fruit in a Bordeaux-style Sauvignon Blanc for Captûre in 2008 and never looked back. He noted that the '99 Steele Viognier, the oldest white evaluated that day, showed "a minimal level of oxidation and had a fresh entry marked by beeswax, The Steele 1999 Viognier honey, orange peel and bright lemon curd with lively, was the oldest white balanced acidity, good focus and a long finish." Malbec gave high praise evaluated. to the '07 Shooting Star Riesling for its varietal expression and Kabinett style, noting only the desire for a touch more acid. Steele observed that 2007 was the single best vintage for Lake County whites on record and said, "Undisturbed aging has played a crucial role in the longevity of these wines. Their condition is particularly good because they have never been moved." Malbec and I collaborated on the tasting notes, which are confined to those wines singled out by the panel using a show of hands as being the best examples of longevity for the variety. A complete, technical summary of the tasting is available by request The oldest red in the from the Lake County Winegrape Commission (www. tasting: the Louis M. lakecountywinegrape.org). Martini 1989 Barbera. Louis M. Martini 1991 Barbera Soft garnet core fading to orange rim. Complex, sour cherry fruit, leather, earth and licorice with depth and balance on the mid palate and fruit apparent on a lengthy finish. Louis M. Martini 1994 Barbera Medium ruby core to pink rim. Notes of wax and orange peel, tart cherry fruit and saddle leather with fresh, weighty tannin structure and medium plus finish. Shooting Star 1994 Merlot Complex, pretty nose of iodine, roses and orange peel. Earthy, elegant red berry fruit with chocolate, green pepper and granular tannins reminiscent of a'70s-style Bordeaux. Steele 1995 Catfish Zinfandel Medium ruby core to narrow ruby rim. Very closed but showing concentrated red fruit flavors, deep spice and animal notes. Marked density and balance with a dry finish. Developing with the potential to age another decade. Shooting Star 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Floral and rose aromas deepening to round, black fruit with layered mocha, chocolate, espresso notes and elegant, resolved tannins which build slowly to a solid finish. Guenoc 1999 Petite Sirah Very youthful and aromatic with violet and herbal, resinous aromas. Soft, dark, full cassis fruit with gunpowder and flint notes but lacking intensity. Spicy finish. Steele 2002 Stymie Syrah Medium, ruby-black core to water white rim. Violet and chocolate aromas with intensely perfumed fruit. Bright and rich with notes of coffee bean apparent on the finish. october 2013 / the tasting panel / 87 TP1013_066-107.indd 87 9/23/13 10:35 PM