Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1787
august 2009 / the tasting panel / 71 drainage resulting in low vigor, small berries and intense varietal fl avors and aromatics. "Up till now, it's been California and everybody else. Now there's a more level playing fi eld: California and Washington, and then every- body else. That's a big change in sta- tus," Dinn explains. "We've always known that we can do this. There's a legitimacy that has come to Wash- ington, and I think that's a launching pad to the next level of legitimacy, on the world stage. It's exciting to see that and be a part of it." Getting Closure Committed to delivering the fresh- est, most fl avorful wine possible to its consumers, Hogue Cellars conducted a comprehensive, sci- entifi c study evaluating the impact various closure types have on wine quality over time. Specifi cally, the winemaking team tested natural cork, two types of synthetic cork and two types of screwcap closures. Ultimately, the results of this study would guide the winery's closure strategy and determine the best closure method for its wine. Over the course of four years, the winemaking team held tastings every six months to compare wines bottled with screwcaps to those with cork-closed bottles. From a winemaking point of view, in every aspect they found the screwcap was superior to both natural and syn- thetic cork. The screwcap kept the wine fresher, showed the fruit better and had less bottle-to-bottle varia- tion, Dinn reports. Armed with conclusive results, Hogue Cellars transitioned its entire Hogue tier (approximately 400,000 cases) from synthetic cork to screw- cap, with no adverse effect on sales. "We have a lot of conviction in our commitment to the screwcap. This is the best. We know it's the best. We've proved it over and over again. We're doing the best thing for the wine. No one told us it was the best; we proved it to ourselves," Dinn explains. Approximately 80 percent of Hogue's production now uses screwcap closure. Due to the intense sunlight and ripe fruit in Washington, red grapes can contain high levels of tannins. If the winery used standard winemak- ing techniques, these methods could produce a wine too dry on the pal- ate, Dinn notes. Tannin management is essential for proper structure, bal- ance, intensity and richness of fruit in the red wines. Jordan Ferrier, red winemaker, working with Washington State University's research lab, has devel- oped a system for measuring tannin levels in red grapes while they are fermenting, to determine the exact time to press for optimal taste. Despite being one of Washing- ton State's earliest wineries, Hogue Cellars has continued to lead in research and technology, and that pays off in quality. Seems like Mike Hogue was right to talk his brother into starting a winery. Hogue Cellars has three tiers in its wine portfolio: Hogue, Genesis and The Reserves. The winery's main line Hogue brand wines are typically priced at $10.99, while Genesis brand wines are $15.99. Hogue Cellars Reserves are highly limited wines, featuring complexity and elegance from extended aging in French oak barrels and are priced at $30. Hogue Cellars Wine Line-Up PHOTO: MATT BOYER