The Tasting Panel magazine

Aug 09

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70 / the tasting panel / august 2009 Gary recognized immediately that bringing in skilled, knowledge- able wine experts was essential for any chance of success in the wine business. Mike and Gary co-founded Hogue Cellars in 1982. One of Washington's pioneers, it was only the nineteenth bonded winery in the state (today there are more than 650). Gary at- tributes Hogue Cellars' success to its mission of hiring only the best winemaking and viticultural talent in the industry and its longstanding partnerships with some of the best growers in Washington's leading appellations. Location, Location, Location Located in Prosser, Hogue Cellars is nestled in the very epicenter of Washington's wine grape heartland and its first established appella- tion, Yakima Valley. The winery still sources 100% of its grapes from the surrounding grape-growing regions, including Wahluke Slope, Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and locally from Yakima Valley. In fact, 35% of the fruit still comes from Mike Hogue's family vineyards. Given its central location with respect to surrounding appellations, Hogue Cellars is able to manage grape transportation efficiently, en- suring the freshest fruit possible. "This really is the perfect site to be making wine," says Co Dinn, Hogue Cellars' Director of Wine- making, who has been with the winery for 14 years. "It's just like any food or agricul- tural product: fresher is better. The sooner we can get the grapes in here and start working with them, the more we can control the pro- cess," Dinn explains. Columbia Valley, Washington's largest viticultural region, fea- tures a climate and soil unlike any other part of the world. Because of its northerly location, the region receives up to two more hours of sunlight per day during the grow- ing season than California's North Coast, allowing the grapes to fully ripen, while cool nights keep fruit acids high, creating rich, flavor- ful, well-balanced wines. Average rainfall is less than ten inches a year, with the majority of the rain coming between November and April. Irrigation systems al- low for more control during the growing season, and low precipitation minimizes threats such as pests and fungal disease. The combi- nation of sand, gravel and clay soils of low nitrogen content and good drainage provides ideal grape growing conditions. One of eleven Washington State AVAs (American Viticulture Areas), Yakima Valley is a cooler region of Columbia Valley that is perfect for growing white grapes. This is where Hogue Cellars sources most of the grapes for its best-selling wines, Hogue Riesling and Late Harvest Riesling, as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. "Washington is a phenomenal place to grow Riesling," Dinn pro- claims. "Grapes are able to ripen fully and achieve a very attractive apricot-tangerine characteristic that you don't see in many regions ex- cept in very select years. Chardon- nay and Pinot Grigio also do very well in the Yakima Valley, resulting in wines that are rich yet refresh- ingly crisp." Washington has also been receiv- ing recognition for its stellar red wines. Hogue Cellars sources a majority of its Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah from the warmer regions, including the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope, resulting in dense, ripe wines with pure aro- matic fruit and crisp acid balance. And just this year, two new AVAs were established in Washington: Snipes Mountain and Lake Chelan. Hogue Cellars has long known about the quality fruit from Snipes Mountain, where the winery has sourced grapes since the 1980s, and today grows Syrah, Merlot, Ries- ling, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio grapes there. A unique geologi- cal site, Snipes Mountain is dotted with ancient river stones where the Columbia River flowed millions of years ago. Today, Snipes Mountain has an elevation of 800–1200 feet, and the steep slopes and the grav- elly soils allow for great moisture Hogue Cellars' Director of Winemaking Co Dinn. Pacific Northwest PHOTO: MATT BOYER In its commitment to quality, Hogue puts its wines under daily analysis in an on-site lab where a research team conducts studies to ensure that each wine is balanced and healthy.

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