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Geyser Peak Goes UNCENSORED To sculpt something that perfectly suits the growing demand for lighter, purer wines, some California producers are picking aromatic grapes earlier in the season—when their natural acidity is still high and sugars are low enough to yield a lighter alcohol wine. The resulting wines are fragrant, textured and complex—delicious for enjoying on their own or as an accompaniment to foods. A perfect example is the Geyser Peak 2012 Uncensored White Blend ($14), a mouthwatering, crisp and refreshing blend of Viognier, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Bursting with gorgeous aromas and flavors of white peach and citrus, the wine's bright fruit sensations are amplified by 100 percent stainless steel fermentation (read: zero oak!). A lovely match for grilled fish or shellfish, assorted cheeses or for pure wine enjoyment any old time. Accolade Wines North America Heavenly Light Trebbiano Is Italy's Latest "Smart Wine" From Ravenna in Emilia-Romagna—the culinary heart of Italy—comes a new white wine for smart wine lovers: the Heavenly Light 2011 Trebbiano ($16). Trebbiano (known as Ugni Blanc in France) is actually the second most widely planted white wine grape in the world, prized for the fluid, moderately weighted, dry style of wine it produces. At an average of 20% less calories than the average glass of wine, Heavenly Light's Trebbiano brightens the palate with its light, zesty, citrus and melon fresh fruitiness. Very much a culinary white! C&C Distributors of Fine Wines and Spirits, Inc. www.candcspirits.com intriguing dashes of sea salt, spice cake and almonds. With even more of the sea-mineral, scrubby lavender and lemon grass qualities of the grape, the Guazza 2011 Vermentino ($18) from Maremma (Tuscany's coastal region) truly sates thrill seekers, while from Umbria, the Lungarotti 2012 Torre di Giano ($12) blends the flintiness of the Vermentino grape with the tactile richness of Grechetto and the flowing, flowery, gently crisp qualities of Trebbiano. Indeed, the Falanghina of Campania, Umbria's Grechetto and Marche's Verdicchio are three ancient grapes that symbolize indigenous qualities—not to mention unbeatable value—found only in Italy. First example: the minerally, jasmine scented Tenuta Rocca dei Leoni 2011 Falanghina ($14)— amazing with fruits de mer. The Arnaldo-Caprai 2011 Grechetto ($14) is a remarkably deep, gripping, lemon meringue– and toasted nut–nuanced varietal white; but if you want something simpler for fish, the Bucci 2011 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi ($20) tastes more purely of minerals, with an emphasis on lightness. The Veneto region's Silvio Jermann is a great winemaker. Hence, the pent-up demand for wines like the Jermann 2010 Giulia Dreams ($60)—a genuinely gorgeous 100% Chardonnay, balancing crème brûlée–like fruit with salty mineral and lemony acid like a silk sheathed mattress on a bottle of wine. "Real" Chardonnay from France One of the great tragedies is that almost an entire generation of Americans (the Boomers) missed out on the joys of French Chablis. For them, the waters were first adulterated by oceans of cheap domestic wines marketed as "Chablis." Then before they could develop a taste for the pure, lean, tart and minerally style of Chardonnay grown in Chablis, they were engulfed by the craze for fat, buttery, tutti-fruity American wines passing for "Chardonnay." If you're looking for baby steps, a perfect introduction to the classically dry, light and flinty style of Chardonnay from Chablis is the Domaine Laroche 2011 Petit Chablis ($16)—your next plate of raw oysters will thank you for that. The sensations are stonier and Chardonnay qualities more stone-fruity in the Domaine Laroche 2010 Chablis Saint Martin ($24), which, typical of all Chablis, is still very light (barely 12% alcohol) and blessedly unmarred by oak. Then when you're ready to get serious, you can appreciate the subtle interplay of limestone-earth, lemon and grapefruit in the Domaine Laroche 2009 Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaudevey ($32). 152 / the tasting panel / june 2013 TP0613_120-156.indd 152 5/23/13 4:56 PM