Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/133302
South American Sensations Have you heard the latest? Ampelographers' DNA research has proven that Argentina's ubiquitous Torrontés grape has no relation to grapes called Torrontés in Spain or Portugal. In fact, it is a crossing of the black-skinned Criolla Chica (aka Mission) and golden Muscat of Alexandria that took place fairly recently, and so is technically a true "native" Argentine. The Muscat lineage explains the ultra-tropical qualities (lychee, mango, papaya) of the Alamos 2011 Torrontés ($12), its typically varietal flintiness and lemon tartness brightened by a sliver of sweetness. Zipped up even more by 15% Riesling, the equally exotic Amalaya 2012 Esperanza Por un Milagro ($12) highlights the prickly chile pepper spice quality of the Torrontés grape, and gives fuller feel than most varietal bottlings of Torrontés. If you are interested in cutting-edge grapes, it doesn't get more exotic than the fantastically priced Viña Falernia 2011 Pedro Ximénez ($10) from Chile's Elqui Valley. Although the "PX" grape is used to make super-sweet dessert wines in Spain, Falernia turns it into a refreshingly easy drinking dry white wine, with unique orange peel tart/ bitter sensations that are edgy without being sharp. Dallying in Italians New consumer demands for lighter, purer, drier whites are paving the way for Italy's dazzling array of indigenous wines, and it's about time these authentic products were better appreciated! Nothing, for instance, says "island style summer sipping" better than the Vermentino-based whites of Sardinia. The medium-bodied Villa Solais 2012 Vermentino di Sardegna ($14) has the wildflower fragrance infused with flinty minerality typical of the grape. For connoisseurs of terroir, the DOCG authenticated Jankara 2011 Vermentino di Gallura ($24) is fuller and fleshier, with Portugal Makes its Push Vin Divino Sets the Bar High The new consumers have created a perfect opening for the white wines of Portugal. The non-vintage Casal Garcia Vinho Verde ($10), produced by Avelada, is as "today" as they come: light as a feather (10% alcohol), bone-dry and tingly with lemon/lime, green apple skin qualities. By the same producer, the Quinta da Aveleda 2011 Vinho Verde ($12) is slightly fuller yet still light and lissome (11.5% alcohol), with compelling sensations of citrus, lavender, flint, and white peach infused by the Alvarinho (10%) grape, along with the native Loureiro (60%) and Trajadura (30%). From the dry, sandy soils of the seaside region of Setúbal, the Herdade da Comporta 2011 is made 100% from the native Antão Vaz grape, and is everything you want in a European-style white: very unfruity in its com completely dry, round, wet stone taste, while exception exceptionally well-priced (under $18). But for summer sipping even further off the beaten path, the Fonseca Siroco White Port ($18) is a fortified white wine (20% alcohol) offering a nutty, bittersweet taste that is almost strangely addictive— especially delicious when served over ice with lime and a splash of soda or tonic. For going on 20 years, Chicagobased Vin Divino has made a huge impact on the way we think about wines with their artisanal, cutting-edge imports from Italy, Austria and Spain. The company also acts as the sales and marketing agent for Wattle Creek, a noted Sonoma winery owned by Australian natives Christopher and Kristine Williams. Sauvignon Blanc is a strong suit at Wattle Creek. The night-harvested grapes for the Wattle Creek 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($14.99) come from cool-climate vineyards in the Yorkville Highlands AVA, in southern Mendocino County. Cold-temperature-fermented and with no oak, this summery white offers a fresh, captivating nose of grapefruit, lemon and lime peel and ripe kiwi. The plush texture, sparked up with feisty acidity, delivers more complex citrus-punch notes on sat the palate, leading to a long, satisfying finish. This wine makes delightful sipping with any kind of shellfish, or with picnic foods such as quiche or salads. One of Vin Divino's Austrian brands, Domäne Wachau, also produces white wines epitomizing what new-gen sommeliers are looking for: sense of lightness, gobs of natural acidity, and an overriding sense of varietal purity with terroir related minerality. Exhibits A & B: the desert-dry, flint, lemon and fusel-laced Domäne Wachau 2011 Federspiel Terrasen Trocken Riesling, and the picture-pretty, pert and lychee/pepper spiced Domäne Wachau 2011 Federspiel Terrassen Grüner Veltliner. More outrageous is the fact that both of these handcrafted wines retail for less than $16! june 2013 / the tasting panel / 151 TP0613_120-156.indd 151 5/23/13 4:56 PM