Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1050740
november 2018 / the tasting panel / 7 "It's a lot better for mixing cocktails because sometimes if you're using an overly smoked mezcal, it can kind of overpower everything else in the drink." While it's taken some time to build a rapport with U.S.-based mixologists, mezcal has a burgeoning and fervent following. Goldberg notes that the spirit performs well when substituted into a bevy of classic cocktails, includ- ing Daiquiris, Margaritas, and Old Fashioneds. "Mezcal has become a huge, huge trend," she says. "I see people just ordering mezcal on the rocks now, which is really exciting and something I never saw before." She's also now quick to debunk any notion of equivalence between mez- cal and tequila despite their shared source material and homeland. "It's like comparing Scotch and bourbon," she says. "They're two separate entities." A Sustainable Brand According to Fagan, what distin- guishes Sombra from its peers in this increasingly competitive category is its distillation process, which incorporates skilled use of the bagaso (agave fiber) and wild yeast within open fermenta- tion vats known as tinas to draw out pronounced flavors. Fagan says building the spirit's flavor profile around a strong agave backbone is paramount, which is why he prefers to produce Sombra with a high ABV. "I believe that mezcal needs to be over 45% in order to bring out its subtleties," he explains. "Somehow you just don't get the agave taste when you weaken the alcohol percentage." Acknowledging the abundance of blessings bestowed on this spirit by the Oaxacan terroir, Sombra aimed to return the favor by instating responsible farming practices from its inception. Other sustainability initiatives include Sombra's commitment to upcycle 80 percent of its waste into adobe bricks, with the remainder going into compost. "It really resonated well with everyone, from the local villages here to members of the trade," Fagan says. "It still costs real money to do the transformation to upcycle this byproduct, but the rewards to the communities and the earth are without a doubt worth it." Goldberg says a brand's outspoken and authentic commitment to the environment can move the needle with guests at The Standard, as the topic of sustainability has become unavoidable in the bar world. "People are really starting to care about the environment—we've gotten to the point where you have no choice," she says. "If they can show support through their drinking, then why not? It's the easiest thing you can do." Wake-Up Call ◗ 2 oz. Sombra Mezcal ◗ ½ oz. Yellow Chartreuse ◗ ½ oz. Caffè Amaro ◗ 1 barspoon cinnamon syrup ◗ 1 dash mole bitters Stir ingredients and serve in a coupe glass. Garnish with a lemon peel. Matcha Haze ◗ ½ oz. Sombra Mezcal ◗ 1 oz. gin ◗ ¼ oz. Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto ◗ ½ oz. Salers Aperitif ◗ ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice ◗ ¾ oz. matcha syrup ◗ Egg white/CBD oil Combine ingredients, dry shake, add ice, and shake again. Serve in a coupe glass and garnish using a matcha-powder stencil of a cannabis leaf.