The Tasting Panel magazine

November 2018

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november 2018  /  the tasting panel  /  1 13 While the recovered bottles stemmed from the second generation of Pol Roger, today the company belongs to fourth-generation proprietors Christian de Billy and Christian Pol-Roger as well as Hubert de Billy, who represents the fifth generation. In fact, Pol Roger is the only Champagne house affiliated with the Primum Familiae Vini, an interna- tional association of leading family- owned wine producers. (Other notable members include Antinori, Joseph Drouhin, Egon Müller Scharzhof, Famille Perrin, Hugel & Fils, Mouton Rothschild, Tenuta San Guido, Torres, and Vega Sicilia.) Always riddled and crafted by hand, Pol Roger's Champagne cuvées age in chalk cellars up to 33 meters deep and are entirely produced at the estate winery. There are reportedly just eight hand riddlers left in the region, four of whom work for Pol Roger. "Time is quality in Champagne" has served as the company's philosophy since its inception: All Pol Roger Champagnes are aged at least twice as long as the mandated minimum-aging requirements. The White Foil Brut Reserve, for example, is aged 42 to 54 months versus the 15-month minimum, while the vintage Champagnes age a minimum of seven years versus the required three. Pol Roger sources roughly 55 percent of the fruit utilized in its wines from 92 hectares of estate vineyards, with the remaining percentage coming from long-term contracts and relationships with growers. On-site production with manual methods ensures attention to detail and quality control prevails from start to finish, while the cel- lars—among the deepest of their kind in Champagne—provide ideal conditions to maximize the prise de mousse, a term for the finesse of the bubbles in bottle. The extended maturation of the Champagne adds depth, harmony, and other elegant characteristics, culminat- ing in an esteemed signature style that's complex and full- flavored with a fine, creamy, and voluminous mousse. It's no surprise, then, that Pol Roger has enjoyed a longstanding and significant relationship with England. Pol Roger was Winston Churchill's favorite Champagne—he once proclaimed that Pol Roger's place of residence, 44 Avenue de Champagne, was "the world's most drinkable address"—and the producer has since named its top cuvée after him. To this day, Pol Roger has a Royal Warrant naming it as an official supplier to the royal family, and its Champagne was poured at the wedding receptions of both Prince William and Prince Harry. Over the past 15 years, the family has invested more than 1 million Euros annually to complete a full renovation of its winery facilities. Part of this remodeling phase has involved rebuilding a packaging facility over the historic cellars, part of which was destroyed in the 1900 collapse. This sparked the exploration of the cavity below and resulted in the subsequent discovery of the long-lost bottles: As workers stabilize the chalk soils to explore farther within, there exists the distinct possibility that hundreds or even thousands more bottles will be unearthed intact. Most amazingly, the wines that were found were still in need of riddling and disgorgement before tasting, taking the aforementioned concept of "time is quality" to new heights in the world of Champagne. Hopefully Pol Roger's unwavering dedication to consistency, quality, and family heritage will be rewarded with the restoration of this precious piece of wine history. Maison Pol Roger is located in Épernay in France's Champagne region. Pol Roger was Winston Churchill's favorite Champagne—he once proclaimed that Pol Roger's place of residence, 44 Avenue de Champagne, was "the world's most drinkable address"—and the producer has since named its top cuvée after him.

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