Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/1036886
60 / the tasting panel / october 2018 David Bruce 2016 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($50) With more than 50 years of history, David Bruce has become an iconic name when it comes to Pinot Noir. Grapes from the winery's Russian River Valley estate are used for this spicy, elegant red, with cherry and plum notes well-defined in a silky body. Cinnamon and orange peel extend from middle to end with an underscore of espresso bean. 94 TERLATO WINES Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2016 Clos Windsbuhl Pinot Gris, Alsace, France ($80) This wine is deeply plush and texturally unique with aromas and flavors of jasmine and honeysuckle. Lanolin and key lime come in mid-palate for a continuously weighty, creamy feel. Pear and kiwi keep it tasting fresh with exuberant acidity. 97 KOBRAND WINE AND SPIRITS M·A·N Family Wines 2017 Free-Run Steen Chenin Blanc, South Africa ($12) The M·A·N Family Wines branding speaks to a family busi- ness two brothers started with a friend and named it after their wives: Marie, Anette, and Nicky. ("Steen" is the traditional South African term for Chenin Blanc.) The free-run juice is used—that is, no pressing of grapes—to preserve a clean, natural character. Refreshing and crisp, it's a great value with Asian pear and white floral tones. 89 VINEYARD BRANDS Dozen Roses Wine 2017 Rosé of Tempranillo, La Mancha, Spain ($15) A perfume of rose petals, cran- berry, and raspberry makes for a charming entry. Tempranillo goes floral on the palate, expressing secondary flavors of cinnamon, roses, and rhubarb. Made to be semi-sweet but not cloying, this is a good starter wine, but it's also a bright addition into the rosé category that promotes this Spanish grape. 90 Stave & Steel 2016 Bourbon Barrel–Aged Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($21) This 100% Cab is aged four months in charred Kentucky bourbon barrels. On the nose, notes of caramel and toasted oak meld with blackberries and spiced figs. Black cherries zing on the palate alongside cinnamon- kissed coffee bean before new leather and vanilla lengthen the finish, urging on spiced orange peel and toffee. The result is reminiscent of bourbon's fine character. 90 SPIRITS La Pivón Vermouth Rojo, Spain ($29) From the only vermouth producer in Madrid and made with Airén and Malvar grapes, this expression contains herbs and botanicals macerated in oak barrels with oranges from Valencia. Aromas of plum, cher- rywood, dried figs, and coffee are expressive. Cinnamon-coated orange peel washes the tongue before it warmly and seductively morphs into rose petals, sassafras, and clove. 94 3 BADGE MIXOLOGY Familia Camarena Silver Tequila, Mexico ($22) Considering both price point and the complexity that ensues in this spirit, we're duly impressed. On the nose, heather and lilac marry into a bouquet of clean agave and tangerine with a veil of vanilla bean. Black pepper anchors a smooth, buoyant texture as dried flower petals, lime, pink grapefruit, and scented boysenberry weave through high tones of agave. The finish is clean with a spot of minerality: almost like tasting a raindrop. 94 Familia Camarena Reposado Tequila, Mexico ($22) This exudes a sumptuous nose of brown sugar, cooked agave, and cedar-washed orange peel. Silky, delicate notes of peppermint and spiced coffee consort with a progression of mid-palate flavors as mocha and peach tones expand, embold- ened and lustrous, toward the finish. 94 JAJA Blanco Tequila, Mexico ($40) Scented like an herb garden with a touch of Himalayan salt and lime, this small-production (100% agave azul), non-aged tequila has a zippy taste profile. The salinity lingers amidst just-ripe agave and vanilla bean on the path to a focused finish. 93 SHAW-ROSS INTERNATIONAL IMPORTERS, INC. Publisher's PICKS +