The SOMM Journal

June / July 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com } 59 Langhe Chardonnay Although tradition plays a critical role at Pio Cesare, Pio believes each generation should be allowed to express themselves in leading the company and carving new paths for the brand—just as he did with the Langhe Chardonnay. After his internship with Mondavi, Pio believed his home region lacked ageworthy white wines on par with the prestigious reds of Barolo and Barbaresco. When the opportunity arose to replant a southeast-facing block at Il Bricco vineyard in Treiso, he suggested they plant Char - donnay. "At that time, it was sacrilege," remarks Benvenuto Pio, as no one had considered planting such a variety in Barbaresco. Pio's father agreed, and in 1985 the winery released its first commercial Chardonnay. A few years be - fore, winemaking legend Angelo Gaja of GAJA released his own version of the variety, and the two wineries became the first to produce a Langhe Chardonnay without know - ing one another's intentions. Pio Cesare 2017 Char- donnay L'Altro Langhe DOC ($27) L'Altro, mean- ing "the other," is the fresh, young counterpart to the traditional, single-vineyard Piodilei. Tropical aromas of passionfruit spring from the glass and are mimicked on the palate, where they're framed by chalky minerality, hints of toasted almonds, and briny acidity. Pio Cesare 2015 Char - donnay Piodilei Langhe DOC ($46) The 2015 marks the 30th anniver- sary release of this single- vineyard bottling from Pio Cesare's Il Bricco Vineyard in the Barbaresco region. The wine is barrel-fermented and aged on the lees in French oak barrels (roughly 33 percent new) for ten months. With an extremely low yield resulting in just 800 cases (10,000 bottles), this embodies the cellar-worthy white wine Pio first envisioned in the late 1970s. Beyond the classic French oak aromas of spicy car - damom and brûlée crust, the palate reveals the unique profile of Langhe Chardonnay. Ripe, yellow peach with distinctly mineral-like architecture is laced by the vanillin- baking spice characteristics of the oak and drenched in mouthwatering acidity. The family behind Pio Cesare: In the back row, Cesare Benvenuto Pio, fourth-generation proprietor Pio Boffa, and Boffa's cousin Augusto; in the front row, Nicoletta Boffa with her and Pio's daughter, Federica Rosy Boffa Pio. Benvenuto Pio and Boffa Pio represent the fifth generation of family leadership at the winery.

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