Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/992999
50 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2018 Santa Margherita USA will import four Cà Maiol wines: three from the basic Linea Classica portfolio (Lugana bianco, Chiaretto rosé, and Giomè rosso) and one from the premium Linea Selezione tier (Molin Lugana DOP white). "With no oak, blocked malolactic fermentation [Lugana and Chiaretto], and minimal lees contact [of 2–4 months], the three wines from the Classica line repre - sent a fresh style that is transparent and true to the varietal characteristics and the Lake Garda terroir," says Sazama. Produced using Trebbiano di Lugana harvested from a 35-year-old estate vineyard, the Molin undergoes 48 hours of cold maceration before fermentation and ages for four months in stainless steel for a richer style. SARDINIA Italy's second-largest island, Sardinia (Sar- degna in Italian), is rugged, sparse, and mountainous with an ideal Mediterranean grape-growing climate, a wealth of ancient bush vines, and several tasty and trending local grape varieties. Of these, Cannonau di Sardegna (widely known as Garnacha or Grenache) is the island's signature grape, accounting for roughly 20 percent of total wine production with approximately 6,300 hectares scattered across the island. The highest-quality vineyards, however, cling to the centrally located, sheep-dotted hills near the city of Nuoro. With its high levels of resveratrol and antioxidants, Cannonau has garnered posi - tive press in recent years for its purported contribution to human longevity (National Geographic and author Dan Buettner last year identified the Ogliastra region of Sardinia as one of five global "Blue Zones," or areas where residents enjoy exception - ally long lifespans). Like the landscape, the wines of Sardinia can be rustic and aus- tere, but a new generation of winemakers has shifted toward crafting more refreshing and approachable styles. Like Cannonau, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC wines can be produced anywhere on the island, although some of the best vineyards lie in the Gallura DOCG on the island's northern tip, where 1,320 hectares are planted to vine. The vines there have adapted well to the blazing drought condi - tions and incessant mistral winds. A high- quality, aromatic white variety of unclear origins (some have suggested Spain, others Piedmont), Vermentino is often fermented in stainless steel to preserve freshness and produce a wine that can be slightly fizzy when young, giving way to rich tropical cit - rus and pear flavors laced with a distinctive sea-salt minerality. Sardinia's big red of the south, Carignano (also known as Mazuelo, Cari - ñena, or Carignan) from the 310-hectare Cari- gnano del Sulcis DOC has proven particularly alluring among savvy red wine lov - ers—largely because of the many ungrafted, pre-phylloxera bush vines thriving in the region that seem barely anchored to the loose sand. "It literally looks like hydroponics in some vineyards," Sazama says with a laugh. "Carignano is a hearty, drought-resistant cultivar that requires extended heat and well-drained soils to ripen, making it a perfect match for the terroir of Sulcis." While Carignano is typically relegated to a small blending component in other parts of the world, Carignano del Sulcis DOC bottlings must be Carignano-dominant (at least 85%). These distinctive wines are characterized by firm tannins, bright acid, and a red-berry, balsamic-savory character. With such a fascinating array of native CÀ MAIOL 2017 Lugana DOP ($15) From the shores of Lake Garda, this zippy, zesty, and mineral-driven Trebbiano di Lugana tantalizes with aromas of lime zest, Asian pear, banana, white flowers, and limestone dust. Vibrant citrus cleanses the palate, depositing notes of apple, lime, and bitter almond like the glacial sedimen - ts layered in Lugana's terroir. Molin 2017 Lugana DOP ($21) Precise, pure, and pleasing, this old-vine, esta- te-grown Trebbiano di Lugana exudes nicely balanced and Alpine-clean flavors of pineapple, pear skin, and lemon curd. It finishes fresh and long with savory, lip- smacking wet stone, white pepper, and thyme notes. Chiaretto 2017 Valtènesi Riviera del Garda DOP ($15) Coral pink and lovely, this lively rosé d'une nuit, or "rosé of one night" (the time allowed for skin maceration) is perfumed with peach blos - som, freshly picked strawber- ries, and white almond notes; a quintessential quaffer with perky flavors of juicy watermelon and iced hibiscus tea that wrap themselves as pretty as a bow around a crystalline mineral core. Giomè Benaco Bresciano 2016 Rosso IGT ($15) Black cherry skins and fragrant violets give way to black pepper spice and dark plum to showcase this ensemble of native Groppello with Marzemino, Barbera, and Sangiovese. Each variety is vinified separately in stainless steel and blended to create this medium-bodied, approachable, and spicy red licked by fine tannins and lifted by bright acidity. Editor-at-Large Cliff Rames Lends Some Illuminating Tasting Notes The Molin Lugana DOP white from Cà Maiol's premium Linea Selezione tier. Cannonau di Sardegna (widely known as Garnacha or Grenache) is Sardinia's signature grape, accounting for roughly 20 percent of total wine production.