Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/992999
86 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2018 Citadelle Gin "Citadelle Gin is a product born of boredom," joked Greg Doxakis of Maison Ferrand, the French Cognac house that also makes this classic juniper-for - ward, supremely versatile spirit. "By law, you can only make Cognac in the fall and winter months, so for half the year our beautiful alembic copper pot stills were doing nothing. About 20 years ago, we sought permission from the AOC to allow experimentation during the off-season, and we came up with the formula for Citadelle." Distilled from French wheat in a column still before mar - rying with 19 botanicals in copper, Citadelle achieves its delicate balance of spice and citrus through a series of gradual infusions at different levels of ABV, as well as a final distillation in Cognac stills with additional juniper. Tasted neat, Citadelle's classic juniper notes provide a piney backbone to a bouquet of orange peel, lemon peel, coriander, star anise, and angelica root—the latter contributing a slightly sweet flavor with a dry edge reminiscent of mushrooms. Ornella Ashcraft, bartender at Austin's Midnight Cowboy, com - bined Citadelle with Fino Sherry, salted pepper tincture, toasted poppyseed syrup, and lemon to highlight the gin's herbaceous side. Shaken with egg white to add body, her drink reveals its subtleties as it warms up. "I recommend smelling the rosemary I've used as a garnish, just to awaken your palate," Ashcraft told attendees. The Panelists Said: Neat: Heavy juniper nose, dry grass, melon rind, zest body soap. Mouthfeel is viscous and peppery. Flavor is crisp, clean citrus and vanillin with a grain finish. Cocktail: Creamy satin with a dry, short finish. Lemon curd, vanilla cream, and muffins. —Steve White Neat: Lavender, lemon peel, dry hibiscus, dry orange. Cocktail: Lemon fresh at first with a peppery back. The Cita- delle comes through without overpowering. —Thomas Ward Pasote Reposado Tequila A member of the 3 Badge Beverage Corporation portfolio, Pasote Tequila is distilled from 100 percent estate-grown blue agave in the Jalisco highland town of Jesús María. The spirit boasts flavors of roasted agave and green grass mellowed with floral and grapefruit notes, as well as subtle hints of vanilla. Third-generation Master Tequilero Felipe Camarena makes use of native yeast, pure rainwater, and natural spring water— as well as six months of aging in American oak barrels—to create a time-honored elixir that speaks to Mexico's cultural history and topography. Aaron Kolitz, bar - tender at The Townsend in Austin, named his cocktail Weber Takes a Trip, as it incorporates in - gredients sourced inter- nationally. It also served to highlight the complex nature of this highlands tequila while under scor- ing its citrus and nutty qualities with Amaro Montenegro, Cocchi Rosa, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, grapefruit bitters, and salt. "The one thing I think tequila needs is some salt to bring out the herbaceous flavors," said Kolitz. "Put some fresh grapefruit on top, and you have a simple, boozy cocktail perfect for warm weather." The Panelists Said: Neat: Slightly smoky nose with sweet fruiti- ness and pineapple leaf. On the palate, banana, toast, ashy smoke, and white pepper. Cocktail: Grapefruit heavy with rough edges smoothed by salt. A nutmeg/cinnamon mid-palate. —Arik Skot Williams Neat: Orange citrus nose; pepper and bitter chocolate on the palate with slight sweetness. Cocktail: Beautifully balanced cocktail that showcases the Pasote nicely. The Reposado really shines. —Brett Esler Les Fines Herbes 1½ oz. Citadelle Gin ½ oz. Lustau Fino Sherry ¾ oz. toasted poppyseed syrup 1 oz. lemon juice 4 dashes salt and pepper tincture Egg white Ornella Ashcraft, who represented Citadelle Gin, is a bartender at Austin's Midnight Cowboy. Weber Took a Trip 2 oz. Pasote Reposado Tequila ½ oz. Amaro Montenegro 1 ⁄ 3 oz. Cocchi Rosa ¼ oz. Lustau Pedro Ximénez Sherry 2 oz. Bittermens Hopped Grapefruit Bitters 3 drops 20% salt solution Aaron Kolitz, bartender at The Townsend in Austin, represented Pasote Tequila with his cocktail, Weber Took a Trip.