The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2018

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98  /  the tasting panel  /  june 2018 98  /  the tasting panel  /  june 2018 ISRAELI WINE S ome members of the industry might debate that a stigma of quality surrounds kosher wine. The moment they're introduced to a new Israeli winemaker, they think, "OK, they're kosher. Their wine is probably fine, but it's mostly there to serve a purpose." While it's myopic as a whole, this presumption couldn't be more ill-advised when it comes to Recanati. Not only is the Hefer Valley–based winery reviving ancient varieties from biblical times and shifting to Biodynamic farming, it's also sourcing fruit from Palestinian growers as it positions itself as a fine Mediterranean producer championing native Mediterranean grapes. Lenny Recanati and Chief Winemaker Gil Shatsberg brought the winery's inspired lineup to Spago Beverly Hills in April, showcasing classic Mediterranean variet- ies like Marsanne, Roussanne, and Carignan. They also introduced members of the trade to the ancient grapes they've been working with: Bittuni, a red grape likened to Pinot Noir, and Marawi, a crisp white grape. "It's important to bring back indigenous varieties for two reasons. First, they are unique to the region and stand out. Secondly, wine was made here at least 2,000 years ago," Lenny explained. "The vision is to produce local Israeli wine that will express the region's special terroir, like a fingerprint." And while all of Recanati's wines are kosher, a lack of flash pasteurization during the production process ensures this requirement has no impact on quality. With its warm climate, most of Israel's grape-growing areas are classified as Region III's to even the lower levels of Region V's on the University of California, Davis Heat Summation Scale—minimizing issues associated with ripening. Lenny and Gil, however, choose to seek an elegant, restrained style by avoiding heavy wines with high ABVs. One of the first releases that really caught on for Recanati is made from old, head-trained Carignan vines found in its vineyards, which, as previously men- tioned, the winery is working to transition toward Biodynamic farming. "We made the decision out of a pure belief that this is the right thing to do for the environ- ment, for the quality of the grapes, and for the wellbeing of the people working in the vineyards," Gil tells me. "It's not going to happen all at once, but it is the direction we are taking." The Bittuni will be available in the U.S. market for the first time later this year, while the Marawi had its first U.S. release in 2016. PHOTOS COURTESY OF PALM BAY History and Heritage RECANATI WINERY SPOTLIGHTS ANCIENT VARIETIES WITH ITS BITTUNI AND MARAWI WINES by Albert Letizia Chief Winemaker Gil Shatsberg and Owner Lenny Recanati showcase Recanati wines at Spago in Beverly Hills, CA. Recanati Winery released its Marawi, a crisp white Mediterranean variety, in the U.S. in 2016.

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