Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/961311
{ SOMMjournal.com } 105 international reputations as instructors and consultants. Thanks to the steady efforts of these driven winemakers, an understanding of regionality has developed, and the results are immediately apparent in the glass. Knowledge of what and where to grow has produced wines that are more individualistic and better show terroir. For example, Bordeaux varieties that epitomized luxury in the 2000s are moving to the periphery in favor of Mediterranean varieties and Rhône blends better suited to the warm climate. Varietal diversity and innovation are key aspects of Israeli wine. Because appellation laws to date are loosely defined, winemakers can work with any grapes approved by the Ministry of Agricul - ture and Rural Development. You can find pockets of Barbera, Sangiovese, and even Nebbiolo here, and indigenous varieties are coming into the picture as well. Overripe fruit, meanwhile, is becoming a thing of the past as winemakers increasingly prioritize freshness. The challenge they face is finding methods to achieve higher acidity naturally; so far, their solutions include harvesting as early as July, choosing cooler, higher-altitude sites, and blending with higher-acid variet - ies like Barbera. Who's Who in Israeli Wine? In the breezy nor thern reaches of the Upper Galilee near the Lebanese border, where the altitude is high and the soil volca- nic, Galil Mountain Winery is the leader for modern, innovative, and value-driven wines. Just south of it in Gush Halav is Shvo Vineyards, where hands-on Owner/Winemaker Gaby Sadan be - lieves that winemaking truly begins in the vineyard. He manages 25 acres planted with goblet-trained Grenache and Mourvèdre as well as Syrah and Barbera and also grows a flinty Sauvignon Blanc and a robust Chenin Blanc that's one of the country's most-renowned whites. Next, one can find the vineyards of legendary New York restaurateur Jacques Capsouto in the town of Peki'in. Capsouto, who was born in Egypt, made his first vintage in 2014 after closing Tribeca restaurant Capsouto Frères. His is the first winery to work exclusively with Rhône varieties; initially consulting with Jean-Luc Colombo, he makes whites from Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Mar - sanne, and Rousanne and reds from two clones of Grenache Noir, as well as Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Counoise. Guy Eschel came to Dalton as winemaker in 2015 via Broc Cellars in Berkeley, California. With further experience working harvests in the Northern Rhône and Australia, he has a passion for non-interventionist wines. Established in 1995, Dalton is becoming one of the old guards of the Galilee: Its vineyard sites are among the best, and its top wines are from single vineyards. Eran Pick, Israel's first Master of Wine, is the winemaker at Tzora Vineyards in the Judean Hills, where he specializes in Bordeaux blends with Syrah. Tzora is part of the Judean Hills Quartet, partnering with Domaine du Castel, Flam, and Sphera to tout high standards of quality in the region. And in the Judean Mountains, winemaker Ya'akov Oryah is at the helm at Psâgot, where he also makes orange wines, oxidative wines, and more under his private label. Finally, in Samaria, Dr. Elyashiv "Shivi" Drori is an important figure not only for his acclaimed Gvaot wines, but for his role as lead researcher on the Grapevine Genome Project and wine- technology studies in the Department of Chemical Engineering, Biotechnology, and Materials at Ariel University. These distinguished producers represent only a fraction of this country's thriving viticultural community, proving just how exciting a time it is for Israeli wine. Ya'akov Oryah with a lineup of his wines in the Psâgot tasting room. The winery is located in the Judean Mountains. Gaby Sadan of Shvo Vineyards checks on his goblet-trained Mourvèdre, 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level in the Upper Galilee.