CDG - The Costume Designer

Winter 2018

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Page 21 of 71

THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT HISTORY OF DRESS Party Through the Decades llustration by Robin Richesson Text by Marcy Froehlich Through the cavalcade of years, fashion is fickle, morphing from one silhouette to the next, switching from vertical to horizontal then back again. What are the influences? Sartorial edicts or royal custom • such as sumptuary laws or the wigs at Versailles Scientific discoveries • think aniline dye, steel hoops, or lycra Tradition versus personal choice • Western funerary black versus a fuchsia wedding gown Wars • produced the trench coat, balaclava, and trousers for women Color symbolism • green, white, and violet for suffragettes, red or blue for gangs Shifting mores and social upheaval • free love and civil rights Climate and home conveniences • central heating or air conditioning Influence of music • Ragtime, rock-n-roll, and hip-hop Celebrities •Madonna's bra to James Dean's cool Costumes • the Ballets Russe, and of course, television and the movies. The wheel continues to turn. What's next? 22 The Costume Designer Winter 2018

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