Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/931490
january/february 2018 / the tasting panel / 99 closures depending on the tier, they've seen a great reduction in TCA. "We've seen our phone calls almost go away from the consumer standpoint," said Meier, who has worked for J. Lohr Vineyards for more than 30 years. "We just have to keep everybody honest and do those tests to make sure that we're getting a product that has that lower percentage of TCA." Regarding the use of natural cork, J. Lohr only employs that category of clo- sures for its higher-end Vineyard Series and Signature Wines. "Our consumers, from a preference standpoint, love to see the cork for sustainability concerns and whatnot," Meier added. "But from a producer's standpoint, we're also concerned about giving the consumer the product that we intended to." Sustainability From a sustainability standpoint, natural cork has no equal in the market. "They're natural, they're reusable, and they're renewable," Madigan emphasized. "There's just not a lot of waste from the cork tree." As a certified-sustainable winery, St. Francis' switch back to natural cork can be partially attributed to self- evaluation: How could it be sustainable when it's using a wasteful product? "It really made us turn our attention back to closure and look at the various concepts," Madigan added. "What's best for us is natural cork." In theory, screwcaps and synthetic corks are made from recyclable materi- als. With screwcaps specifically, the size of the cap is too small, which can cause them to fall through the metal grating at recycling centers. "With some of these alternative closures, yes, they may be recyclable, but the infrastruc- ture to recycle them just isn't there," Madigan noted. In addition, cork forests, or mon- tados, provide great value to their home country's economy; this is especially true in countries like Spain and Portugal, which have undergone mass deforestation. "Fortunately the cork trees have value, so there's been a lot more planting," Glancy said. The montados are also considered to be one of the last barriers to desertification in these dry, semi-arid climates. The panel pictured from left to right: Katie Madigan, Winemaker for St. Francis Winery; Peter Weber, Executive Director of the Cork Quality Council (CQC); Jeff Meier, President & Director of Winemaking for J. Lohr Vineyards; Lisa Mattson, Director of Marketing for Jordan Winery; and in front, moderator and Master Sommelier David Glancy. Tasting Notes Jordan 2012 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley: A combination of stainless steel (1/3) and French oak (2/3) fermentation with partial malolactic fermentation makes for a surprisingly zingy wine despite nearly five years in bottle. There's green apple, hints of diesel, and subtle aromas of lemon curd. The palate is bright with a saline-like brine and a fullness reminiscent of par-baked pie crust. Aged for six months in 42% new French oak. Jordan 2015 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley: 47% stainless steel and 53% new French oak fermentation gave the wine a subtle, aged character; some guests thought the two vintages had been switched. Almond cookie and barrel spice mingled with pear, and Meyer lemon aromas echoed on the palate. St. Francis 2014 Zinfandel, Giovanetti Vineyard, Russian River Valley: This eight-acre parcel is planted to primarily Zinfandel, although DNA studies have shown there are around 20 different varieties in this 120-year-old vineyard. A beautiful wine with ethereal, perfumed Indian spiced aromas of coriander and chai mingled with black plum. Savory palate with hints of Darjeeling tea, plum sauce, and mouthwatering black fruit. 2015 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, Creston District AVA, Paso Robles: With the 2015 vintage, the J. Lohr's flagship wine is finished with ND Tech Corks, a guaranteed TCA-free punch cork produced by Amorim. Meier noted that this is structurally the "biggest wine J. Lohr produces." Rich, black fruit infused with umami-like aromas of hoisin and bone broth. A plush mouthfeel with round, silky tannins and a core of blackberries of chaparral. PHOTO COURTESY OF J. LOHR WINERY