The Tasting Panel magazine

January / February 2018

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january/february 2018  /  the tasting panel  /  81 Flying Through the Years: AVIATION AMERICAN GIN A nostalgic faction of the mixology com- munity is increasingly seeking out tributes to the pre-Prohibition era in their preferred cocktails—but they're hesitant to leave the current time period altogether, especially with so much exciting innovation on display. Aviation American Gin is one of those rare labels that can transport consumers to the past as it sets its sights firmly on the future. The spirit's namesake is the Aviation Cocktail, which made its debut in Hugo Ennslin's Recipes for Mixed Drinks (widely published in 1917, the book was revived with a new centennial edition in 2017). Considered to be the last known book of its kind released before Prohibition, Recipes for Mixed Drinks evolved from a little-known pamphlet of both standard and unconventional cocktails to a staple revered by many a modern mixologist. The handcrafted, small-batch gin is pro- duced at House Spirits Distillery in Portland, Oregon. Conceptualized a decade ago by Co-Founders Ryan Magarian and Christian Krogstad (who also serves as Aviation's Master Distiller), Aviation Gin forgoes the juniper-heavy characteristics of traditional English gins in favor of a more balanced, smooth taste. This brings other enticing flavor notes, including French lavender and Indian sarsaparilla, to the forefront after the blend of globally-sourced botanicals is macerated and distilled. The resulting versatility enables the 84-proof spirit to meld seamlessly into both contemporary cocktails and nostalgic drinks like its namesake. Ensslin would no doubt be surprised by the influence his book holds on the industry all these decades later, considering he spent his days as the inconspicuous head bartender of the Hotel Wallick in New York City's Times Square (a victim of Prohibition, the hotel closed in 1939). But the Aviation—which mixes gin with lemon juice, maraschino liqueur, and crème de violette—is one of many creations he popularized that continues to pop up on bar counters today. With the option to feature Aviation Gin as its base, it's no wonder the cocktail is still flying high. —Kate Newton

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