Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/91577
APPELLATIONS POMAR JUNCTION Dana Merrill is a farmer. His family has been farming everything on the Central Coast for eight generations . . . everything that is, except grapes. That changed in 1981, when he was hired by a vineyard management team in Monterey, gaining him extensive experience in viticulture. This led Merrill to found Mesa Vineyard Management in 1989, where he worked with high profile vineyards along the Central Coast from Santa Maria Valley to Monterey. Santa Fe railroad cars add ambience to the vineyards at Pomar Junction. Pictured left to right are winemaker Jim Shumate, proprietor Dana Merrill and co-owner/General Manager Matt Merrill. It's no wonder that the area is inspiring a vast array of intellects, from horticul- turists to engineers and, of course, to farmers, to break ground and cultivate the land. These estate wineries sought to make their mark in this growing AVA, and are succeeding in creating wines of substance and place that reflect their vision of what it means to be estate. But most of all, they represent the future of Paso Robles and what it means to its dawning popularity on the world wine stage. These small produc- tion land owners are an example of the burgeoning movement of this growing region. They understand how Rhône varietals shine here, how Bordeaux varietals express sunshine and soil and ultimately, why so many of us are paying such close attention to the area. Limestone-rich, Linne Colado soils—calcareous shale and sandstone soils common to the Adelaida Hills—and cool afternoon breezes allow these wines to maintain their bright acidity, while still exhibit- ing the richness of fruit for which Paso Robles is known. 2010 Pomar Junction Viognier, Estate ($25) Sweet floral aromas of honey- suckle and citrus blossoms fill the glass. On the palate the wine is crisp with beautiful saline-like minerality and the richness of poached Bartlett pears. 2008 Pomar Junction Merlot, Estate ($28) Aromas of warm, blackberry pie and brown butter pleasantly invade the nose. The wine displays gorgeous black fruit on the palate, Thanksgiving spices, and a hint of mint and dark chocolate. The structure holds well with a backbone of good acid and smooth tannins. A perfect reminder that a well made Merlot should never be brushed aside. 84 / the tasting panel / november 2012 In 2002, Merrill purchased what is now called Pomar Junction Vineyard, a 95-acre planting situated just south of Paso Robles in the El Pomar District, just east of the windy Templeton Gap. Merrill intended to concentrate only on growing, but after a local winemaker pointed out, "Merrill, you'd better start making some wine; these are darn good grapes," he was motivated—and determined—to ferment. Merrill allots roughly ten percent of their SIP-certified (Sustainability in Practice) vineyard for their small estate production. The wines are created under the careful watch of winemaker Jim Shumate. For Merrill, each wine is a reflection of his personality and the sweat equity he invests in the vineyard. "It's almost like a fingerprint," he points out, "which you can't find in any other crop."