Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/91577
Japanese, with a Diff erence Rob Holder at Roka Akor in Scottsdale, AZ. S cottsdale restaurant Roka Akor was inspired by the original Roka, located in London. Since the American version refl ects the original, the name Roka—itself a combination of the Japanese words ro ("gathering place") and ka ("burning fi re")—is mirrored by adding its palindrome to the moniker, hence Roka Akor. With a second location in Chicago, parent company JNK Concepts (owned by Dr. John N. Kapoor) is busy preparing yet another Roka Akor to open next spring in San Francisco's Financial District. The busy man behind the beverage programs at these Japanese-inspired steak-and-sushi eateries is Rob Holder, who keeps Roka Akor's wine, saké and cocktail programs as cutting-edge as the inventive sushi and robata cuisine. "We're chef-driven, not a soulless chain" says Holder, who notes that varying clientele in each market means each location has to be geared independently—more steak offerings in beef-obsessed Chicago, for example, where wine and cocktails rule, and more demand for saké in Arizona. With a wine list that draws widely on different styles from all over the world, Holder is also enthusiastic about Roka Akor's integrated saké program. "Saké lists can be unfamiliar to guests," says Holder, who studied saké with noted expert John Gauntner. "It's not about making the biggest saké list in town, but about making sure it's approachable, well-rounded and offers fl avor profi les that are not redundant." In Chicago, Holder features more than 85 sakés, all premium and super- premium. A core by-the-glass saké program is also in the works, with the same sakés available in all locations. Meanwhile, Holder gives his in-the-scene bartenders carte blanche to come up with signture cocktails featuring seasonal ingredients. "And our shochu program is a great way for guests to start a meal," he notes. —David Gadd www.rokaakor.com