Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/91577
THE VARIETAL While some wineries harness the proven ability of Petite Sirah to make delicious wines in mass quantities, the yearly production of Napa Valley's David Fulton Winery is less than 400 cases. These are handcrafted $45 Petite Sirahs, from dry-farmed, head-trained vines, some over 80 years old. Although tended by the same fam- ily since 1860, the winery's first vintage was a 1999. "We always knew what our grapes were truly worth—it just took us a while to take the natural step," states Fulton Mather, the great-grandson of founder David Fulton. Richard Mather, winemaker for David Fulton Winery in Napa Valley. The distinction of producing America's first Petite Sirah (1961) goes to Livermore Valley's Concannon Vineyard, founded by James Concannon in 1883. Demonstrating how early the ampelographical mix-ups began: there is a January 1890 issue of the Livermore Herald reporting on "A Million Grape Cuttings" sent by Concannon to the "Mexican Government for distribu- tion in that country." In the article, "Petite Syrah" is listed among other "Claret"' grapes—including "Zinfindel," "Chauche Noir" (most likely the Portuguese grape, Bastardo), "Malvoise" (an obscure synonym for Cinsault), "Charbono" (a.k.a. Corbeau, Charbonneau, or Bonarda) and "Petit Pinot" (identity unknown). Concannon Vineyard produced America's first varietally labeled Petite Sirah. Since planting his vineyards in the rolling hills of Paso Robles in the mid-1990s, the Swiss born proprietor of Vina Robles, Hans Nef, has sought to embrace both Old and New World sensibilities, choosing to specialize in Petite Sirah as a varietal, as well as in proprietary blends incorporat- ing Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. "When it comes to Petite Sirah, we strive for full, rich mouthfeels, but without the excessive astringency often associated with the grape," says winemaker Kevin Willenborg. Creston Vineyards, for Paso Robles winery Vina Robles. 136 / the tasting panel / november 2012 PHOTO COURTESY OF CONCANNON PHOTO COURTESY OF VINA ROBLES PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO