The SOMM Journal

December 2017 / January 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  45 ScanTrack—couldn't have manifested without the investment of serious finan- cial and sweat equity by vintners. In 2014, winegrowers from five Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) growing regions in Spain—Calatayud, Campo de Borja, Cariñena, Somontano (Aragón), and Terra Alta (Catalonia)—united to establish the Asociación para la Promoción del Vino de Garnacha (Garnacha Origen) with the mission to improve quality standards and promote the PDOs as the cradle of Garnacha. Today, Garnacha Origen represents 5,500 winegrowers and 144 wineries, which collectively cultivate nearly 35,000 hectares of vineyards and produce 750,000 hectoliters of wine—40 percent of which is Garnacha. On the other side of the Pyrenees moun - tains in the Roussillon region of southern France, the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon (CIVR) set out to accomplish a similar mission. A trade organization comprised of 2,200 winemaker families, 25 cooperatives, and 350 private cellars, CIVR counsels and represents the region's 14 PDO regions and three PGI wines, includ - ing Grenache-based fortified vin doux natu- rels of Banyuls and Maury. In partnership with Gar nacha Origen, these producers spearheaded a European Union–financed campaign to celebrate their common heritage and to assist wine consumers and professionals in rediscovering the versatile, vivacious, and terroir-driven Garnacha/ Grenache wines of their regions. THE MANY FACES OF GARNACHA Perfectly suited to the warm Mediterranean climate, European Garnacha/Grenache thrives in the hot, dry, well-drained schist and granite soils found on the slopes, pla- teaus, and amphitheaters of Aragón, Terra Alta, and Roussillon. In these conditions, the roots must drill down deeply for water, which concentrates flavor in the bunches. Like ancient sentinels twisted by time and the brutal cierzo winds, these old bush vines ripen late, usually after Cabernet Sauvignon, and are plump with sugar and robust flavor. The variety's skin, however, is thin and lightly pigmented, rendering moderately-colored and consumer-friendly low-tannin wines. Not all European Garnacha/Grenache is created equal—that is its charm. Over the centuries Mother Nature has worked her wonders, mutating the variety into three genetically-identical, yet characteristically- distinct, versions: Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, and Grenache Blanc. In the glass, red Garnacha/Grenache can convey juicy, ruby fruit characteristics or a full, robust, and darkly-spiced expression best paired with hearty dishes like curries, burgers, and grilled sausages. Grenache Gris, meanwhile, produces lovely and vibrant yet creamy rosé wines with notes of strawberry, rhubarb, and watermelon that delightfully pair with grilled tuna or charcuterie. Grenache Blanc, with its fleshy orchard fruit, honeysuckle, and saline mineral notes, is best suited for shell - fish, seasonal salads, or white meats. Sofia Gonzalez, Managing Director of Garnacha Origen, recalls a memorable pairing she enjoyed at Piperade in San Francisco: white gazpacho with almonds and garlic, served with Garnacha Blanc. "But why stop there?" she asks with a laugh. "You can pair a multi- course meal with just Garnacha!" Fernando Mora, Spain's newest Master of Wine, says he enjoys the wide variation of styles Garnacha/Grenache yields: from the crisp, floral and mineral whites of Somontano and Terra Alta to the deep, black, meaty reds of Campo de Borja. "There are many faces of Garnacha," he observes. "Food-pairing opportunities are nearly infinite." Speaker and wine judge Christy Canterbury, MW, concurs with Mora, add - ing that the magic of Garnacha/Grenache lies its delightful ability to complement a cornucopia of seasonal dishes—both savory and sweet. "With Garnacha/Grenache wines from both sides of the Spanish-French bor - der, you experience everything from afford- able, slurp-worthy quaffers to premium, mind-bendingly complex wines," she says. "It's a variety that virtually does it all." PHOTO: MICHAEL SETO PHOTO COURTESY OF WINES OF GARNACHA At left, Christy Canterbury, MW, speaker, and wine judge, offers her take on Garnacha/Grenache to The SOMM Journal. At right, gnarled Garnacha vines in Spain.

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