The SOMM Journal

December 2017 / January 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  121 "Partly due to Hungary's communist regime in the late '80s and early '90s, Hungarian wines were known more for their quantity than their quality," Katona admits as we sit in the expansive dining room of Costa di Mare, which overlooks an outdoor set - ting filled with romantic private tables and a koi-filled pond. "However, in the past few years Hungarian wines have really taken off, and the Furmint varietal, particularly dry styles, is gaining a reputation as the ultimate food-friendly pairing. Even the sweet styles are excellent for desserts, without the syru - piness or overwhelming sweetness that the style can be indicative of." When Katona mentions that "the value of MÁD Furmint is unbeatable," Nagy chimes in that he sees MÁD Furmint as an entry-level gateway for American wine drinkers to get hooked on Furmint. "It's already a success in Asia, Europe, and even Australia," Nagy explains. "And once they try MÁD Furmint, they'll explore different kinds of Furmint and eventually try pricier single-vineyard Cru selections, too." Selling an esoteric Hungarian wine might seem more challenging than peddling a Napa Cab or Bordeaux, but Katona cred - its his trusting relationship with his diners for making it easier than one might think. Costa di Mare carries three wines from Szent Tamás: the affordable MÁD Furmint, the single-vineyard Szent Tamás Cru, and a MÁD Late Harvest Furmint. "We have more regulars that you might expect from a tourist destination like Las Vegas," Katona explains. "People know we can deliver a top-notch experience and ask to try something new from the wine list. Once the bottle comes to the table, the product sells itself." And while Nagy says that Millennials are particularly receptive to trying new vari - etals, he's observed that "generations are open-minded as well." "It's a versatile wine that everyone can love; you can drink it at a wine bar, or drink it at home," he adds. At Costa di Mare, Chef Mark LoRusso has crafted a menu focused on Mediterranean seafood: White, light fish are prominent on the menu, as are their live langoustines. What might come as a surprise, though, is that an equal amount of thought and care is placed on the vegetarian and vegan menu—ensur - ing that every diner can find something to suit their appetite. "I'd go as far as saying Furmint could go with almost anything on our menu," Katona declares. "It brings a freshness and acidity to match our dishes, whether it's a vegan dish of farro with wal - nuts, butternut squash, cranberry, and lemon vinaigrette nestled in a roasted acorn squash paired with the Szent Tamás 2013 Furmint— which has a rich texture that stands up to the grain—or the MÁD Furmint paired with triglia thinly-crusted with bread served on a ratatouille of eggplant, peppers, onions, and tomatoes drizzled with herb sauce. The wine complements the mild fish without overwhelming it." There is an impressive attention directed to the Tokaj region, including an increase in marketing and promotion delivered by Vinum Tokaj International's campaigns launched in the North American market. Attila Balla and Enikő Magyar, market and brand builders of Furmint, aim to translate the history, the hundred years of viticultural experience, and the outstanding quality of the new-style dry Tokaj wines to the U.S. "I have never experienced such a strong, continuous, and focused presence of the Hungarian wines promotion in the U.S. so far," Katona adds, further emphasizing that we are living in a time of great momentum, or a "new golden age," for the Tokaj region and its wines. Katona has been back to visit Hungary many times since he's moved to the States and is always on the lookout for new Hungarian wines. "I think Hungarian Furmint will be the new white wine of the U.S., much like how Italian Pinot Grigio, Germanic Grüner Veltliner, or Spanish Albariño have gained popularity," Katona asserts. "It has an energy and flavor that translates across international borders." Tamás Nagy, Head of Marketing and Education for Szent Tamás Winery; Károly Kovács, Co-Owner of Szent Tamás Winery; Miklós Katona, Wine Manager of Costa di Mare at Wynn Las Vegas; Eniko˝ Magyar, Project Director of Wines of Excellence; and Attila Balla, President of Vinum Tokaj International. At left, triglia thinly crusted with bread served on a ratatouille of eggplant, peppers, onions, and tomatoes drizzled with herb sauce accompanies the MÁD 2015 Furmint.

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