Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/912565
december 2017 / the tasting panel / 93 Unlike vat-fermented Prosecco, however, Cava is made in the méthode Champenoise (or, to use the sanctioned term, método tradicional). In other words, "you've got the gold standard in process for half, if not less than half, of the price of Champagne," Bernth says. "But what does that soccer mom browsing the shelves at Kroger care about the traditional method versus Charmat? How do we attain that cachet that Prosecco has enjoyed?" For the fourth-largest winery in the world, the answer to that question is multifold. The company—managed since 1968 by fourth-generation owner José García Carrión, with the help of his son Luciano for the past 20 years—starts with an understanding of what differentiates Cava from its best-known counterparts. Though the DO spans a number of regions, most Cava is produced in Catalonia, thereby conveying "the romance and sexi- ness of Barcelona," explains Bernth. At a time when respect for sense of place has begun to gain mainstream currency, Cava relies primarily on the local, all-white varieties of Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada. And due to the region's warmer climate, it's softer and lower in acidity than Champagne—a selling point for bubbly newbies who fear austerity. Cava also boasts "tight, fine bubbles, whereas Prosecco is frothier, with larger bubbles," Bernth adds. García Carrión seeks to reveal those distinctions through two brands. The first is Jaume Serra Cristalino, produced on a 300-acre estate in the Alt Penedès and serving as what Bernth calls the "workhorse in our portfo- lio." At its core are three labels: Brut and Extra-Dry, both composed of the classic varietal blend, and Rosé Brut, consisting of 80% native red Trepat and 20% Pinot Noir. All three are aged on the lees for at least 12 months, the legal minimum for Cava being nine. These constitute a well-established lineup, as JS Cristalino has been earning accolades for its quality-to-price ratio for years. Yet Bernth acknowledges that much work remains to be done, further indicated by the fact that Americans still treat sparkling wine as an apéritif. Conceptualizing food pairings has been an important focus for García Carrión, with the Brut being "your everyday Cava for pairing with roast chicken and pizza" as well as, of course, Manchego and jamón. The company's own tasting cards also offer some fun suggestions for casual, unfussy meals, like the Rosé with fried calamari and the Extra-Dry with barbequed ribs. Beyond furthering Cava's potential as a food pairing, Bernth says García Carrión wants to shake up the current climate where the average consumer tends to shy away from combining bubbly with anything other than orange juice. "Another platform we want to promote moving forward is mixology and mixability," getting bartenders on board with "the versatility of Cava in all its different styles," he explains. Where JS Cristalino is approachable, Pata Negra is aspirational. The alignment of García Carrión's second brand of Cavas—which has just begun to hit American shelves—with "the beauty and romance" of Spanish culture is evident at first glance. Bernth notes that "the packaging is designed to resemble the iconic gates of the Casa Milà," Antoni Gaudí's "gorgeous" architectural masterpiece in Barcelona. The hope is that what's inside the bottle will be viewed as pretty special by consum- ers, too. Aged for 18 months, the Pata Negra Brut Reserva adds 20% Chardonnay to the standard combination of Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada. There's also an organic Brut made with 100% Macabeo grapes—"a bit of a risk," Bernth admits, but yielding a profile that's "a little more fruity and yeasty." The Pata Negra Brut Rosé is a blend of 80% Trepat and 20% Pinot Noir. Meanwhile, the 100% Garnacha Organic Brut Rosé will launch early next year. Its stunning bottle with trendy rose-gold hues will hint at what Bernth calls García Carrión's "new, modern approach for Millennials." It's part of a larger strategy he's confident will finally mark a watershed for Cava in the U.S. "It's the right brand, the right style, the right label—and I think it's the right time," Bernth adds. Cava The new Organic Rosé Brut will launch early next year.