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46 / the tasting panel / november 2017 TRAVELING A s with any wine-producing country, it would be difficult to talk about winemaking in Hungary without examining the most crucial time of the year for a winemaker: the harvest period, followed by the birth of the new wine. In Hungary, harvest starts at the end of August or the beginning of September, and can last until end of November in the case of the world-famous aszú (meaning botrytized) grapes of Tokaj. Therefore, November is the month of the fresh, fruity, lively new wine and it ushers in the season of myriad wine festivals across the country. It is also the month of St. Martin's festivities, as November 11 is a traditional feast day celebrated by drinking new wine traditionally paired with goose. When talking about goose—a favorite ingredient in Hungarian cuisine—mention must be made of St. Martin, patron saint of the poor. According to the legend, the Savaria- born (referring to the ancient Roman name of the Hungarian town of Szombathely) soldier of the Roman Empire offered half of his cloak to a beggar one cold night, and Jesus later appeared in his dreams as the beggar wearing the cloak. After being released from military service, St. Martin devoted his life to the Christian faith. Being a humble and withdrawn man, he wanted to avoid being ordained as a bishop and hid in a goose pen—in vain, it turns out, because of the loud cackling of the animals. The autumn season should not be missed for those planning a trip to Hungary. The North Hungarian Mountains offer amazing russet and ochre sceneries, the buzz of the summer season calms down around Lake Balaton, and hikers and bikers appear around the cellars of Sopron and Tokaj. During this time, one can see the activities of a winery and understand why each glass of wine—the result of intensive work lasting an entire year—should be celebrated. Hungary is still a place where the visitor, wine novice or not, has the chance to meet the winemaker in person and talk with them in-depth about the past harvest year; exchanging those stories makes visiting a truly memorable experience. There will be some winemakers who will give sad retellings about the loss of entire crops due to spring frosts, some who will show you all the different stone varieties with love and passion (like István Szepsy from Tokaj); and some who will lead a group tour in their vineyard to show off the most beautiful sunsets you have ever seen (with István Balassa, also in Tokaj). Having a wine tour in Hungary will not only give you exquisite sceneries and great wines, but a range of personal stories, laughter, and time for reflection with those who created the wine you are sipping. Enjoy each and every drop while you're celebrating wines created based on centuries- old viticulture and winemaking traditions, as a respect for nature and innovation points the industry toward the future. In Hungary, harvest starts in late August/early September and can last until the end of November in the case of the world-famous aszú (meaning botrytized) grapes of Tokaj. St. Martin's festivals take place during the month of November and are celebrated with new wine paired with goose. Harvesting Hungary by Izzy Watson Autumn in Hungary means gorgeous fall-colored scenery, especially among the vineyards. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE HUNGARIAN TOURISM AGENCY