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76 / the tasting panel / september 2017 Infiné 1939 2015 At Last Cuvée Bianco, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Italy ($49.99) Mineral, pine, lanolin and pear are odd combinations on the nose, but they meld beautifully as a bouquet. There's a luscious fluidity here: green apple, pea tendrils, pineapple and butterscotch that further round out this lovely expression. This is a proprietary blend of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon and Rhine Riesling. 92 PALM BAY INTERNATIONAL Franciscan Estate 2014 Magnificat, Napa Valley ($55) The royal carmine hue makes this wine look all the more stately. First introduced in 1985, this Meritage blend continues to cast a spell and blends all five Bordeaux grape varieties. The mélange consists of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 5% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Cab Franc from lots off of the 240-acre Oakville Franciscan Estate vineyard. The wine spent 20 months in oak. The aromas triggered a mountain forest: sage, jasmine, truffle and cherry wood. I salute this particular vintage for its fleshy, satiny texture with a firm structure. Flavors are layered with cinnamon, lavender, blueberry-boysenberry and caramel-mocha coffee. 96 CONSTELLATION WINE U.S. SPIRITS Wild Roots Cranberry Infused Vodka, Oregon, USA ($24.95–$29.95) Cranberry is apparent on the nose, but there are also aromas of beets and lime zest. There's a natural bit- terness on the palate, a tart cranberry savoriness and no sugar added, so don't expect any cloying sweetness in this 70-proof spirit. 90 WILD ROOTS SPIRITS Title No. 21 American Whiskey, USA ($25) The 21st Amendment was the repeal of Prohibition, so this aptly-named spirit is an inspirational message from our past and into the future for the production of small batch whiskeys. A lightly-perfumed nose of orange marmalade and oak is pleasant and welcoming. The mouthfeel is satiny, with a chili pepper on oatmeal twist that tops sweet, honeyed pineapple. At 80 proof, it's wonderfully approachable, and the pekoe orange tea finish is perfect. 95 SOUTHWEST SPIRITS Gin Lane 1751 London Dry Royal Strength, U.K. ($28) At a proof of 94, the alcohol releases some gregari- ous scents of juniper and anise. On the palate, the dryness turns to a peppery lavender, and the heat lifts quickly. The finish is clean and savory. 90 PARK STREET IMPORTS Château Arton Fine Blanche, Haut-Armagnac, France ($35) This blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard is distilled to 55% and allowed to rest briefly before proofing and bottling (ending up at 90 proof). It is unaged and the sweetness of white flowers, marshmallow and salted lemon fills the air. On the palate, a distinct floral tone runs through lime oil, white grapefruit and white pepper. Beautifully constructed with a seamlessness. 94 ALTAMAR BRANDS Publisher's PICKS Styler 2014 Pinot Noir, Wildcat Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($38) This is the first wine put forth by husband-and-wife winemaking team Dan and Karen Gruber (who spend their non-winemaking time practicing law in Los Angeles). Made from hand-selected, whole- cluster fruit and aged 21 months on new French oak, this is an extremely impressive wine for the new winemakers' first effort. Aromas of fresh-from-the-field strawberries, green coffee beans, black licorice, tarragon and worn leather give way to bright tart cherry and low-hanging autumn smoke on the palate. All of this is layered over a subtle background of sage, thyme and sweet pipe tobacco. A restrained but bright acidity coupled with the heft and richness of this Pinot Noir make it a fantastic wine for food. Its ability to be paired with anything from lighter seafood and poultry to rich game meats and steaks makes it the perfect wine to drink throughout the entirety of a meal. PHOTO: RORY SNIPES Rory Snipes, General Manager & Partner, SOCA, Sherman Oaks, CA Publisher's Pick Guest Editor our