The Tasting Panel magazine

September 2017

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september 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  67 Ironically, while airlines have made a point of serving recipes from big name chefs during flights, it's the food that both big name chefs and no-name chefs serve to the poor souls wondering why their flight was just delayed that is noteworthy. There's no getting away from the simple fact that we were not meant to eat seared foie gras with mango coulis at 35,000 feet— goodness knows how the stuff was packed and stored! But on the ground, the sky's the limit. That sushi at Narita was terrific, as good as anything found around the Tsukiji Fish Market—where the fish was undoubtedly purchased. Wonderful as well were the Japanese-made Kit Kat bars sold at the airport, in exotic flavors like melon, apple, green tea, matcha, wasabi (seriously!), chocolate and strawberries n' cream. Some you can find only at the airport—try not to eat them all on the flight home. One of the hottest trends in airport food is a serious commitment to serv- ing chow that reflects local flavors. You know you're in Baltimore-Washington International thanks to the presence of not one but two branches of Obrycki's, the iconic Bal'more crab house, on different concourses. Get yourself a Crabby Mary: Absolut Peppar in a glass rimmed with Obrycki's richly spiced seafood seasoning, garnished with a crab claw. Then, tuck into the deviled crab cakes, and be sure to score some Crisfield roasted oysters. You may find yourself regretting that your flight is ready for boarding. At the nightmare brought to life known as Chicago O'Hare International, local legend Rick Bayless has a branch of his Tortas Frontera—which, no, does not offer deep-dish pizza. Instead, you go there for any of eight sandwiches on tasty bolillo bread—there's the Cubano with smoked pork loin, the pepito with braised beef short ribs and the cochinito pibil with achiote braised pork. If you can't live without a final taste of deep-dish, there's a place called Reggio's Pizza. It's rarely mentioned in a city obsessed with its pizzas, but if it's what you need, there it is. One of the pleasures (the very, very few) of flying out of New York's JFK is the presence of a branch of restaura- teur Danny Meyer's much-loved Shake Shack. The burgers are well-sized, flavorful beyond all bounds and reason, topped with a sublime sauce—and best of all, while there's an endless queue at most Shake Shacks, the one at JFK tends to have a short line, or none at all. You might want to get another burger to go, in case you feel peckish on the plane––they travel well enough. If you happen to be unfortunate enough to pass through New York's LaGuardia Airport—aka the Ninth Circle of Hell—comfort yourself with a handheld from Custom Burgers by Pat LaFrieda, whose meat is considered the sine qua non of ingredients in New York. To be able to eat it in an airport that could be described as cruel and unusual punishment is a soothing balm––probably the only one. Of course, you've got to go to Legal Sea Foods at Boston's Logan International—it really is the best clam chowder in town (New England–style, of course). The baked Boston cod is pretty great, too. And how can you go through Miami International without croquettas or a thick, porky Cubano sandwich? If you're at Nashville International, Swett's is the place to go for fried chicken, fried okra and mac 'n cheese—though if you eat too much, they might charge you for excess baggage. At Philadelphia International, you can grab just one more cheesesteak at Tony Luke's. At Dallas/Fort Worth International, Cousin's Bar-B-Q has a brisket sandwich, cooked "low and slow," with a couple of jalapeño-ched- dar links, just for the heck of it. And at Los Angeles International, there's California post-modern chow from heavily-inked Chef Michael Voltaggio, whose ink.sack outlet in Tom Bradley International Terminal offers nearly two dozen wildly rethought sandwich options. Get the José Andrés, a sand- wich of ham, chorizo and manchego, or Voltaggio's banh mi, made with chicharrones. Only in L.A.—and only at the airport. JFK in New York City is home to an outlet of the beloved burger joint Shake Shack, with the added bonus of little to no lines. At LAX, Chef Michael Voltaggio's ink. sack serves up modern interpretations of classic sandwiches, like a banh mi made with chicharrones. PHOTO COURTESY OF TORTAS FRONTERA PHOTO COURTESY OF SHAKE SHACK PHOTO COURTESY OF INK.SACK The cochinito pibil sandwich from Tortas Frontera in Chicago O'Hare has achiote braised pork, pickled red onions and black beans.

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