The Tasting Panel magazine

September 2017

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september 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  1 19 time yet. But when she went to Tokaj in June this year, she was enamored. "It's such a beautiful product," she says, "that when it came my way I couldn't bear to pass it up." ALL ABOARD THE MÁD TRAIN Cattani's passion for Furmint already has The Tasting Panel aboard the MÁD Wines Express, but we ask anyway why she thinks American sommeliers will get behind the brand, the region and grape. For Cattani, it's the fact that the wine is so different. "It's something new to talk about. Well, it's something old that's new again," she says with a grin. "We can't say that it's new; it's more like it's been resurrected." She compares it to the similar resurgence of craft cocktails in the mainstream: "The same thing happened with mixology—the change in the industry. People are being exposed to this and talking about it, and that gives it legs to grow as a brand." The dry Furmint wines of Tokaj are already a part of the Master Sommelier exam, but that's not enough for Cattani. She's ready to get somms to the region so they can be exposed to the com- munity and encounter the real heart of the brand. It's not just sommeliers Cattani plans to wow with MÁD—it's the American consumer. "The American palate can get behind this," she says. "It's easy to drink, great with food, and something you can enjoy all year round. It's just a matter of exposure." The Tasting Panel has been supporting "The Year of Furmint" campaign launched this year by MÁD U.S. importer and brand builder Vinum Tokaj International LLC, and Cattani thinks the timing is impeccable to introduce people to something new in a market saturated with American wines: "They are ready for this." BUILDING THE FUTURE AT BOTTLEROCK L.A. She's not alone in that feeling. Corwyn Anthony, General Manager of BottleRock L.A., says the Furmint has been selling incredibly well and cites several reasons for its success. "It shows bright fruit in a laid-back way," he says. "It's not syrupy like other wines that show fruit. It's crisp, and while the fruit is really profound, it has that mineral to offset the sweetness, which makes it a great combination of palate pleasers." As a restaurant owner, Anthony also praises MÁD for its ease of pairing. "It helps accentuate the food that you pair with it; it doesn't take away flavor, and that's really important when you run a restaurant." Cattani isn't shy about her love of BottleRock L.A., which has been voted best wine bar in Los Angeles three years running. For her it's the perfect wine trifecta—wine bar, full restaurant and retailer. "If you enjoy a wine over dinner, you can take a bottle of it home," she says. That's what makes it an ideal partnership for a wine brand new to the market like MÁD. Anthony also believes it's about con- venience for the customer. "They don't have to hunt to find a wine they had at dinner, only to give up, and when you're selling a new wine like MÁD, it really helps to be able to enjoy it and then take it home immediately," he explains. As for Cattani, she feels like this is a one of those rare dragonfly-caught-in- amber moments. She knows this is just the beginning of MÁD's rise to super- stardom, and is looking forward to a time when she and Anthony can share a "Do you remember the beginning of this crazy ride?" reminiscence. TIME TO SHINE That moment, though, lies at an unknown point in the future, and right now Cattani is putting her head down and digging in. For her, making MÁD shine is about getting in front of somms and collaborating with the key players in the market. It's more than building a brand—it's about building relationships and staying true to your word. To that extent, Cattani is excited to find different ways to make partner- ships with somms and bartenders. In today's market, somms aren't the only ones selling wine, and Cattani knows the importance of involving bartenders: "We all need to work together to tell this story, and every account is unique." That's why her approach is about creat- ing promotions and events tailored to individual accounts. "Somms and bartenders have the relationships with their clientele," she says. "My job here is to educate and elevate." She has been assisted in this task by Furmint's market and brand builders in North America—Attila Balla, President of Vinum Tokaj International and Eniko" Magyar, Project Director of Wines of Excellence—who have been working closely with the Hungarian govern- ment in the last four years to put back Hungary on the world wine map. THE MAGIC OF MÁD "MÁD translates to 'Today is a gift,'" says Cattani while she looks at the bottle's label. "And when you are in the community of the Mád village, you feel that." She recounts her experience in Tokaj, from interactive experiences in the culinary center to walks along the hilltop farms. "You can tell there's something magical happening in that village," she says. "And I feel like magic should be spread and shared." She takes a moment to laugh at herself. "Is that too hippie? Is my northern California coming out?" No, but your inner Hungarian is. "The Szepsy wine- making family has been making wine for 18 generations, and have created such an economy that they are buy- ing grapes from 100 families from 27 regions in the Mád village. That means people don't have to out- source, so every- thing is handled within the village."

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