The Tasting Panel magazine

July 2017

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74  /  the tasting panel  /  july 2017 93 The Calling 2014 Patriarch Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($70) The Calling's best single-vineyard lot of Pinot each year is bottled as Patriarch. Lovely cherry fruit and silky texture; long, elegant, fresh and balanced. DEUTSCH FAMILY WINE & SPIRITS 93 Clos du Val 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Hirondelle VIneyard, Stags Leap District ($120) A Stags Leap classic with deep ruby color ; smooth, dense and ripe with racy and juicy fruit; nicely structured with edgy flavors. CLOS DU VAL WINE CO. IMPORTS 91 Bodvár NV Pearly N° 1, Languedoc Roussillon, France ($21) Swedish entrepreneur Bodvár Hafström is a rosé specialist. This sparkling version from 100% Cinsault shows pale pink color and clean, racy flavors. A new concept, nicely done. IMBIBE WINE & SPIRIT MERCHANT 92 Craggy Range Vineyards 2016 Sauvignon Blanc, Te Muna Road, Martinborough, New Zealand ($22) Smooth and juicy with much more Loire style than Kiwi; fresh, juicy and racy with lovely style. See more on page 18. KOBRAND 90 Forrest Estate 2015 The Doctors' Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand ($22) John and Brigid Forrest left careers in molecular biology and medicine to create Forrest Estate. Bright, juicy Riesling with fresh, tangy flavors and a long finish. PACIRIC PRIME WINES 91 Vietti 2016 Roero Arneis, Italy ($23) A lively white from the hills outside Alba in Piedmont. Fresh, bright and juicy with minerals and tangy acidity. DALLA TERRA 91 Casarena 2015 Estate Red Blend, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina ($20) The folks behind Casarena are known as "the punks of Luján" for their unconventional approach. This stylish blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Malbec has tangy plum and berry fruit. VINE CONNECTIONS 92 Trinity Hill 2013 The Gimblett, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand ($35) Pioneers of red wine in New Zealand make this dense, lush-textured Bordeaux-style blend; deep and ripe with concentrated fruit and lovely balance. TERROIR SELECTIONS 93 Bird in Hand 2013 Nest Egg Shiraz, Mount Lofty Ranges, Australia ($85) Named for the nearby 19th-century Bird in Hand gold mine. Dense, spicy nose; lush, elegant and toasty with ripe blackberry and spice. HP SELECTIONS 97 Tenuta di Biserno 2012 Biserno, Toscana IGT, Italy ($175) From Lodovico Antinori's Maremma project, developed with Michel Rolland. Supple, elegant and rich with hints of earth, spice and showing great finesse; seamless and generous. Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot. KOBRAND BLUE REVIEWS DONELAN FAMILY WINES was founded in 2009 with a focus on cool-climate Rhône and Burgundian varietal wines from Sonoma vineyards. Joe Donelan was previously the investor behind Pax Cellars but decided to rebrand under his own name. His sons, Tripp and Cushing, are also involved in the project, which has garnered well-deserved acclaim for its resolute insistence on quality. I recently tasted through some current releases with Cushing Donelan. Here are my notes. 92 Donelan Wines 2014 Nancie Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($48) Made from selected vineyard blocks that the Donelan family feels demonstrate their favorite Sonoma County Chardonnay characteristics. Fresh and juicy with racy acidity and tangy fruit; silky and lifted with bright style and clean flavors. 92 Donelan Wines 2013 Two Brothers Pinot Noir, Sonoma County ($55) Blended from grapes from Steiner Ranch, Devoto Vineyard, Walker Vine Hill and Perli Vineyard. Pale in color but alive with bright raspberry and cherry; silky and tangy on the palate with a long, balanced finish. Quality-Driven in Sonoma: Donelan Family Wines 2014 Chardonnay, Made blocks characteristics. 92 Noir, Steiner Walker Vineyard. alive and on Family 2013 Pinot ($55) Vineyard,

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