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94 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2017 Peter Molnar—who farms his Obsidian Ridge Vineyard on a Red Hills site replete with black, glassy obsidian shards and rocks—tells us: "Many sommeliers, like con - sumers, may be jaded by West Coast wines, but these vineyards are not just new, they're crazy different." Adds Molnar, "Cabernet Sauvignon is by far the most widely planted varietal in Lake County, although all the red Bordeaux and Rhône grapes are spectacular here. The reds express their own unique, cool- temperature, high-chaparral environment. There is a distinctive taste in the wines— suggesting the pines, oaks and manzanita— to go along with the concentrated colors, tannin and phenolics. The closest thing to the combination of power and terroir found in Lake County reds is probably Ridge's Monte Bello—only we are growing in the country's clearest air!" A sampling of Lake County's power and clarity: Gregory Graham 2015 Windrem Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Big Valley- Lake County (SRP $20) This vineyard is singled out in this bottling because it is consistently one of the finest in the broader appellation. Z-quadrilateral trellising engen - ders the bright, fruit focused (rather than green herbaceousness) nose of lemon/lime, avocado and honeydew; and a lemony tart, light feeling medium body freshens the pal - ate with razor precision. High Valley Vineyard 2014 Petite Sirah, High Valley-Lake County (SRP $30) Extreme concentration comes natu - rally to this bottling by the Shannon Ridge Family of Wines. Opaque black-purple col- ors and concentrated blueberry focus; big (14.7% alcohol) yet rounded in generous, cohesive tannin and fruit. Brassfield Estate 2012 Syrah, Monte Sereno Vineyard, High Valley-Lake County (SRP $35) Concentrated purplish- black color and violet perfume, with fennel- sausage spice and smoked meat sensations pushing through a roly-poly, dense yet supple, buoyant palate-feel (the latter, a signature of consulting winemaker David Ramey). Obsidian Ridge Vineyard 2013 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills- Lake County (SRP $30) It's no exag - geration to say that this would be at least a $75 wine in other appellations (Napa Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains or even Paso Robles). The black mountain fruit is luxuri - ous and concentrated; the tannin core, a steely fist; the layered feel, velvety and suave; yet with pungently wild scrub-like, almost sandalwood-ish spice sensations unlike that of any other Cabernet Sauvignons, except others grown in Lake County. Six Sigma 2013 Tempranillo Reserve, Lake County (SRP $48) This estate's 1,700-foot elevation Diamond Mine Vineyard has proven to be a dynamite site for this grape since a first vintage in 2005. Red cherry/blueberry fragrances rise above suede glove, cigarbox and dried kitchen herb aromas, sweetened with restrained French oak; dense, velvety, taut and medium-full bodied on the palate. Watch for the full story on our Lake County Somm Camp in the August-September issue. { somm camp preview } Winemaker Matt Hughes of Brassfield Estate Winery. Six Sigma Ranch owner Kaj Ahlmann (foreground) and his son, VP Christian Ahlmann, in their 1,700-foot-elevation Diamond Mine Vineyard.